GrizzlyStik Samurai Single Bevel

SikaMDhunter

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Had a successful aoudad hunt earlier this year followed by an early season white tailed doe in PA. I want to show the broadhead I used.
Grizzlystik Samurai 200g single bevel broadheads. There are two version they make; one with advertised AUS 4 (420HC) steel (RED colored) and a stronger steeled 440HC (BLACK colored). Regular priced red-$70usd and black-$110usd for three broadheads. Extremally sharp out of the package as reviewed by innovative outdoorsman

I use a PSE bow at 63lbs, Sirius Supernova arrow (standard diameter) with a 100g insert.
I was using the weaker AUS 4 steel version (red colored). On the Aoudad hunt, known as a tough animal, I was successful with a quartering to shot. When I recovered the broadhead I discovered the tanto tip to be not only bent but actually chipped away.
Tip #2.jpg
Tip #2 Front.jpg

This made it impossible to resharpen as too much of the tanto tip was missing.
I decided to accept that as I was told the Aoudad is tough and I was using the weaker steel version of the broadhead. With 2 blades still remaining I went on an early season white-tailed doe hunt in PA. I was lucky to get a perfect broadside shot on a larger doe with a complete pass through. Once again the tanto tip was bent over after retrieving the arrow.
Tip #1.jpg
Tip #1 front.jpg


With this result I will not be using these broadheads on my upcoming Africa hunt. I will be getting Ironwill single bevel with bleeders and relying on the reviews of others and hopefully some late season deer. I'm sure had I gotten the stronger steeled Grizzlystik broadheads (black) it may have held up better. I do think that the longer design on the Samurai version helps lead to this bending. Grizzlystik makes a broadhead called Maasai that I feel would help alleviate this problem as well. I would however recommend not buying the cheaper (red) $70usd AUS4 steel heads and instead go for the $100usd 440HC steel heads. These heads seem to be a one animal broadhead so I would opt for the stronger steel and wider design heads Grizzlystik offers or go with something else.
 
I believe that Grizzly Stik has fallen down a bit over the years. I never believed all that single bevel jazz from Ashby. I had some Safari tapered arrows and was running then on a few 100# longbows they were supposed to recover quicker from paradox. They are amazing but the proprietary nock size really upset me when I damaged one because it really locks you in on string size. Anyway I would buy the strongest broadheads you can find that aren't tooting their own horn and then worry with sharpening them. Recognize that even though it's costing you probably $30 an arrow now, it is a recoverable yet still sacrificial element.
 
I believe that Grizzly Stik has fallen down a bit over the years. I never believed all that single bevel jazz from Ashby. I had some Safari tapered arrows and was running then on a few 100# longbows they were supposed to recover quicker from paradox. They are amazing but the proprietary nock size really upset me when I damaged one because it really locks you in on string size. Anyway I would buy the strongest broadheads you can find that aren't tooting their own horn and then worry with sharpening them. Recognize that even though it's costing you probably $30 an arrow now, it is a recoverable yet still sacrificial element.
I made the switch from mechanicals last year, still searching for a fixed that'll handle any animal. Going 2 for 2 with these I started looking for one that was highly reviewed so I'm going with ironwill. Even with a larger price per broadhead I'm hoping I can get a fare amount of uses with them. I feel these Grizzlystik broadheads just have the wrong shape for lasting multiple impacts.
 
Look at some of @Bowhuntr64 ‘s broad head reviews. He goes through a ton of them for durability, etc.
 
I have limited experience with the red version referenced here. They fly well but aren’t as durable. I do have a fair amount of experience with the heavier and more expensive black version. I use the Maasai 200 gr and have been very happy with them. In range practice I’ve sent them into the dirt and have been able to successfully resharpen them.
my buddy uses the heavy samurai black version and I have observed them to be very durable. I’ve seen him shoot them into the dirt as well and the tip hasn’t bent over. (70 lb bow).

I do think it is asking a lot of a broadhead to withstand what we put them through. My previous broadheads (a variety of 3 blade items from Cabelas) were completely ruined after either 1 deer or one bad practice shot.

The Maasai broadhead (black) was good for a quartering toward shot at a buck that passed through the scapula and resulted in a dead deer in about 10 seconds. The broadhead is in near perfect condition.

note: I don’t have experience with the Ironwill
Ps: I shamelessly burn money on ammo. That has allowed me more latitude in seeing arrows and broadheads as a fungible resource. They last a lot longer than a box .375 H&H practice ammo.
 
I've used the red 200 and 125 Massai with great results. My arrows are in the 650 range total weight and I shot a couple of animals on my last hunt with the same head. I'd just put the edge back on when we got back to the lodge. One of them was my most used practice head. I had almost worn all the red anodizing off of the ferrule before the hunt. I took my first animal, the big Kudu bull with it on the first day, then sharpened it, and used it the next day on a Springbok.
Not giving a breakdown of every animal I'v shot with the 125 and 200 Massai, but I've been more than pleased with the results and have had no breakage on the heads.
I'm going after Cape Buffalo next, will be using a 950 grain arrow, haven't decided on the head, but I'm leaning towards the black 200 Massai.
I've also had great luck with the Cutthroat heads sold by RMS, but there's two things I don't like about them. One is the fact that they rust easily, the second is the fact that the rear of the head is flat and has no edge. Shooting them into a broadhead target is no problem, getting them out without destroying your target is the problem. Very difficult to extract.
You hear a lot of good things about the TuffHeads, but they are all sold out, everything is "not in stock"
 
VPA single bevel broad heads have never been stopped by a bone, in my own experience. Out of a 64lb longbow, or a 73lb recurve, bone only allows for the "report" sound of bone being cracked, split, etc. I've had more issue with the arrow and inserts not holding up to same level of abuse.

For my lighter recurve, I like the Tusker heads, but haven't had as much "less ideal" experience with them for a full evaluation.

If a broad head costs more than $15, and that's duck hunting with a rake, it should probably have some kind of fairy dust or be a collectable.
 
I put an Iron Will single bevel 250gn through a Cape Buffalo and it is immaculate. The 300gn VPA had noticeable damage with plains game, but nothing critical. With the exception of one that hit a rock
 
I've used the red 200 and 125 Massai with great results. My arrows are in the 650 range total weight and I shot a couple of animals on my last hunt with the same head. I'd just put the edge back on when we got back to the lodge. One of them was my most used practice head. I had almost worn all the red anodizing off of the ferrule before the hunt. I took my first animal, the big Kudu bull with it on the first day, then sharpened it, and used it the next day on a Springbok.
Not giving a breakdown of every animal I'v shot with the 125 and 200 Massai, but I've been more than pleased with the results and have had no breakage on the heads.
I'm going after Cape Buffalo next, will be using a 950 grain arrow, haven't decided on the head, but I'm leaning towards the black 200 Massai.
I've also had great luck with the Cutthroat heads sold by RMS, but there's two things I don't like about them. One is the fact that they rust easily, the second is the fact that the rear of the head is flat and has no edge. Shooting them into a broadhead target is no problem, getting them out without destroying your target is the problem. Very difficult to extract.
You hear a lot of good things about the TuffHeads, but they are all sold out, everything is "not in stock"
I was interested in the Maasai broadhead and will probably give them a try out. I think the shape would elevate the bent and broken tip problem I've noticed with the Samurai. Tuffheads are impossible to get most the time but I am now curious if the more steeply angled broadheads have more of a problem. I certainly will take a couple diamond plates on my Africa hunt but I'm not interested in spending the night reworking a tanto tip.
I still believe Grizzlystik to be a good company. They offer a cheaper broadhead with a lower steel strength and that's on me for purchasing it. I believe the carbon percentage on their red broadheads is 4%. I have an extra three pack and have considered using these as my practice broadheads and perhaps getting the stronger steel black broadheads for hunting. I just don't know how many more animals I'll have a chance to to get before my Africa trip in 2023. Nothing like testing things in the field.
 
I put an Iron Will single bevel 250gn through a Cape Buffalo and it is immaculate. The 300gn VPA had noticeable damage with plains game, but nothing critical. With the exception of one that hit a rock
Have you used it on any other game? I'm assuming you ran a heavy arrow for a Cape Buffalo so what would you run on PG?
 
Have you used it on any other game? I'm assuming you ran a heavy arrow for a Cape Buffalo so what would you run on PG?
I haven’t used it on other game. I do plan to use iron wills or the VBS from vector in 100gn or 125gn when I’m hunting with Kwalata in September. My plains game arrows will be about 500gn total weight.

My buffalo arrows were about 830gn, but I’m going to build some that go about 1050gn for that trip as well.
 
I haven’t used it on other game. I do plan to use iron wills or the VBS from vector in 100gn or 125gn when I’m hunting with Kwalata in September. My plains game arrows will be about 500gn total weight.

My buffalo arrows were about 830gn, but I’m going to build some that go about 1050gn for that trip as well.
What type of bow were you shooting the 830's off? Are you concerned about the 1050's being a bit different on trajectory?
 
What type of bow were you shooting the 830's off? Are you concerned about the 1050's being a bit different on trajectory?
I was shooting a bowtech solution drawing 72lbs. I’m planning to grab a revolt X80 when the bow shop gets the 2023 models in and discounts the 2022s. So taking 2 different bows will keep any issues with trajectory to a minimum
 
I have limited experience with the red version referenced here. They fly well but aren’t as durable. I do have a fair amount of experience with the heavier and more expensive black version. I use the Maasai 200 gr and have been very happy with them.
@SikaMDhunter,

i spoke to an arrow tech when i bought some grizzly stick arrows and then questioned him about the broad heads. his take was similar to above, the red version of the samurai is not as durable as the black version. he said in the red version, the better broad head was the masai. which i bought, in 200 gr. the black version does have tougher steel in both broad heads. i like the shape of the samurai, but want a head that will not fail. i too also have bought 200 gr tough heads. and they sharpen up well, and appear tough. i will be using my masai on the winter moose hunt coming up in a couple weeks tho.

I never believed all that single bevel jazz from Ashby.
re: the single bevel head. you don't have to believe it, but do a bit of research and it is provable that the single bevel head is better at penetration due to its rotational force (just a benefit due to shape) to any bone contacted. a long bevel is a more efficient lever than a short one. these are simple facts, now materials (steel, aluminum etc) and workmanship will factor in on how durable a broad head is, but single bevel broad heads do penetrate better if bones are hit and the way they twist thru tissue seems to help them make a larger cut.
 
I was shooting a bowtech solution drawing 72lbs. I’m planning to grab a revolt X80 when the bow shop gets the 2023 models in and discounts the 2022s. So taking 2 different bows will keep any issues with trajectory to a minimum
My setup exactly. I always carry two bows, typically my Solution set at 72 lbs and my Assassin set at 70 lbs. For this next trip, the Solution will be used for PG, and as a backup to the Revolt X80 I bought for the buffalo. Each bow has two sights, one set for the lighter arrows, the other for the heavier arrows.
 
My setup exactly. I always carry two bows, typically my Solution set at 72 lbs and my Assassin set at 70 lbs. For this next trip, the Solution will be used for PG, and as a backup to the Revolt X80 I bought for the buffalo. Each bow has two sights, one set for the lighter arrows, the other for the heavier arrows.
Yup. I did the 2 sights last trip. I’ll bring both for the solution again, but given the weight of the arrows I’ll probably get a single pin sight with different tapes for each arrow to go on the X80
 
Yup. I did the 2 sights last trip. I’ll bring both for the solution again, but given the weight of the arrows I’ll probably get a single pin sight with different tapes for each arrow to go on the X80
For my Revolt X80 and the 950 grain arrows, I decided to go with a fixed five pin. I'll set the pins at 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, then the three pin Trophy Ridge Hotwire for the lighter arrows. On the Hotwire, the first two pins are fixed, third is a slider. I have two Hotwires for the Solution, and two for the Assassin and they served me well on the last trip.
I figured, for a buffalo, my PH said we would not be shooting past 40 yards and I did not want to be messing with a slider at such close distances. If I need to use the Revolt for PG should my Solution have problems, then the Hotwire would do the job for the lighter arrows. My PH said be prepared for up to 60 yards for the zebra.

As far as the discussion on single bevel broadheads, you either believe in them or you don't. Ford or Chevy? It's a personal preference. But for me, "I drink the Kool-Aid" and I'm a firm believer in the fact that a heavy arrow, with a high FOC, and a single bevel broadhead is the way to go.
My daughter also shoots the same setup and on her Kudu bull, with a 52 lb bow and a 550 grain arrow, she had a complete pass through. On her blue wildebeest, the animal was quartering away a bit, not the best angle. Her shot was off just a bit forward and the arrow hit the right from leg, hitting the bone. The arrow went through the leg bone, breaking it, and she still got 10" of penetration. It made it 80 yards before going down. A lighter arrow, with a normal or mechanical head, would not have had the same results.
Using the same bow, but using a 'borrowed' arrow as the airlines did not drop off all of our luggage, she was shooting a 350 grain arrow with a 100 grain Rage for the first two days in Botswana. On an impala, perfect quartering away shot at 20 yards. Very little penetration but enough to kill a small impala. The next day, a blue wildebeest bull came in at 20 yards. Same slightly quartering away shot at 20 yards. Hit him right in the sweet spot. She got about 5" of penetration and we never recovered that animal. She stopped shooting until her arrows were finally delivered on the 4th day. Ask her what she'll shoot from now on and she'll tell you the same thing. She's a firm believer in a heavy, high FOC arrow with a single bevel broadhead.
So for us, pass the Kool-Aid please!
 
For my Revolt X80 and the 950 grain arrows, I decided to go with a fixed five pin. I'll set the pins at 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, then the three pin Trophy Ridge Hotwire for the lighter arrows. On the Hotwire, the first two pins are fixed, third is a slider. I have two Hotwires for the Solution, and two for the Assassin and they served me well on the last trip.
I figured, for a buffalo, my PH said we would not be shooting past 40 yards and I did not want to be messing with a slider at such close distances. If I need to use the Revolt for PG should my Solution have problems, then the Hotwire would do the job for the lighter arrows. My PH said be prepared for up to 60 yards for the zebra.

As far as the discussion on single bevel broadheads, you either believe in them or you don't. Ford or Chevy? It's a personal preference. But for me, "I drink the Kool-Aid" and I'm a firm believer in the fact that a heavy arrow, with a high FOC, and a single bevel broadhead is the way to go.
My daughter also shoots the same setup and on her Kudu bull, with a 52 lb bow and a 550 grain arrow, she had a complete pass through. On her blue wildebeest, the animal was quartering away a bit, not the best angle. Her shot was off just a bit forward and the arrow hit the right from leg, hitting the bone. The arrow went through the leg bone, breaking it, and she still got 10" of penetration. It made it 80 yards before going down. A lighter arrow, with a normal or mechanical head, would not have had the same results.
Using the same bow, but using a 'borrowed' arrow as the airlines did not drop off all of our luggage, she was shooting a 350 grain arrow with a 100 grain Rage for the first two days in Botswana. On an impala, perfect quartering away shot at 20 yards. Very little penetration but enough to kill a small impala. The next day, a blue wildebeest bull came in at 20 yards. Same slightly quartering away shot at 20 yards. Hit him right in the sweet spot. She got about 5" of penetration and we never recovered that animal. She stopped shooting until her arrows were finally delivered on the 4th day. Ask her what she'll shoot from now on and she'll tell you the same thing. She's a firm believer in a heavy, high FOC arrow with a single bevel broadhead.
So for us, pass the Kool-Aid please!
I use a heavier arrow but I'm not so concerned about foc. With a 100g insert and 200g broadhead I just assume it's heavy enough up front. I haven't gone with an outsert sleeve as I don't see the need. Trying to get a heavier arrow you can only really add weight up front so I don't ever do any foc measurements. I am still running 3 fletchings and have seen quite a bit about maybe needing 4 since I go with a heavy fixed broadhead.
As for single bevel I think the tanto tip and ability to spin more after impact are worth it. Plus I only need to sharpen one way.
 

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