Favorite cartridge/rifle for moose

BC.Pat

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860 lbs of cut/wrapped meat was Big moose
Yeah, not to brag but the butcher whom was originally from Anchorage was surprised it was from BC, probably near 1300 lbs. on the whoove. My Son and I could not lift the quarters, we dragged them to the truck and ramped them into that back. Funny enough its rack was pretty small, maybe 36. inches at most.

Regards
Pat
 

ldmay375

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Yeah, not to brag but the butcher whom was originally from Anchorage was surprised it was from BC, probably near 1300 lbs. on the whoove. My Son and I could not lift the quarters, we dragged them to the truck and ramped them into that back. Funny enough its rack was pretty small, maybe 36. inches at most.
Regards
Pat
Yep, sometimes that headgear just does not match the body size.
The area that I hunt has a size restriction of at least 50” width, and/ OR 3 brown tines on at least one side. OR a spike/fork on at least one side.
I go by brow tines. I do not trust my eyeballs to recognize the difference between 48 or 50”. Sometimes they walk, because seeing those brow tines is not as easy as it would seem. Especially when they like to maintain some type of cover.
 

ldmay375

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Definitely two different sized animals here. Both of them trophies to me. Both shot with a 416 Ruger.
I laughing recall my daughter in-law looking at the double fork-horn and asking with all seriousness, “Is That A Moose ?”
I have never seen a moose so stuffed with browse or as fat as that fork-horn. Great eating, that one.

92E6ED2E-3B16-4A84-98AE-5A48C56188F0.jpeg
 
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ldmay375

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The larger one is a 3x3 brow tine moose.
The brow tines beams are both approximately 16” long (measured from the short side / the topside) and the individual tines vary from 5 to 10” in length.
One would think the brow tines would be visually easy to identify. That is usually not the case when I see moose. The angle of view can make the opposite palm tines confuse things. When there are alders, trees, and brush involved it is not as easy as it would seem.
The spike/ forks cannot have palmation on their legal side. Which is another issue that you better be sure of prior to squeezing that trigger.
 
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Pheroze

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The larger one is a 3x3 brow tine moose.
The brow tines beams are both approximately 16” long (measured from the short side / the topside) and the individual tines vary from 5 to 10” in length.
One would think the brow tines would be visually easy to identify. That is usually not the case when I see moose. The angle of view can make the opposite palm tines confuse things. When there are alders, trees, and brush involved it is not as easy as it would seem.
The spike/ forks cannot have palmation on their legal side. Which is another issue that you better be sure of prior to squeezing that trigger.
I would be afraid to hunt in your area. Those rules sound very complicated!
 

camerl2009

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Up here in Canada more moose have been taken with .30-30 and .303 british then anything else.

For me anything handy for thick northern Ontario brush would work.
.303 british
9.3x57(or x62)
8x57
.577-450
.577 snider
I prefer heavy for caliber bullets moving a tad slower less meat damage but still packing a punch. Wish the .303 215gr kksp by dominion was still available woodleigh 215gr are almost identical though.
 

MarkB

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Must say I have shot many tons of moose, over 35 animals, from small meat bulls to my booner. One thing I have learned is you do not need a cannon to kill any moose. Most stand around after the first shot waiting to be shot again, NOT like elk or deer. What you do need is a well constructed bullet placed in the right spot. I have used my, 375, 338, 300wm, 300wsm, 308 win, all with accubonds of correct weight for caliber. I find I reach for my shortened and lightened 6 lb rem 700 in 308 win most times. Joy to carry, never failed to drop any moose and good practice for upcoming safari.

MB
 

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Natives in my area often use a 30-30. I told one guy I was going to loan a kid my 308. He gave me a painful look and said he'd get us a 30-30. He just hated the idea of any meat loss. Different perspectives. I had an old man tell me how they used to hunt moose with a .22. But they know how to track it. An instant kill was unlikely. Obviously that was a different time when salvaging every possible scrap of meat was more important i.e. back when you might actually miss meals if you didn't kill something.
 

Neil Molendyk

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270 Winchester 150 grain Sierra Game King, Ruger M77, my first rifle
45-70 Govt 500 gr Hornady, Ruger No.1, the most enjoyable carrying in the timber
375 H&H 270 gr Barnes TSX BRNO 602, just because I had it.
They all worked flawlessly
 

buffybr

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I've only shot two moose. Both were Shiras bulls in Montana and each dropped almost instantly from a 180 grain Partition from my .30 Gibbs.

I took a friend moose hunting in Montana and he dropped his bull in his tracks from a single shot from his 7 mm Rem Magnum. At the time his bull was the 4th highest B&C scoring moose in Montana.

Two years ago I took my 7 mm RM with 160 grain Accubonds tot Newfoundland for moose, but I was too picky on their antlers to take a shot.

In September I'll be hunting moose in western Alaska with my .375 RUM and 270 grain Barnes TTSX bullets.
 

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Just curious as to what other hunters prefer for moose hunting. I am fully aware that you can kill them with anything, shot placement, and other standard comments.

My typical shooting distances have varied from about 25 yds to approximately 180 yds. In my present hunting area 225 yds would be maximum visibility. 25 yard to 75 yds are probably the most likely shots. Shot times have varied from early morning, mid-afternoon, and very late evening. Conditions usually fog/mist, rain, and on the rare occasional sunny.

I am a fan of 323/8mm through 416 calibers.

My personal used favorites are:
338 Winchester, 24” stainless Ruger rifle
375 Ruger, 20” barrel stainless Ruger rifle
416 Ruger, 20” barrel stainless Ruger rifle
I may break tradition and hunt with a 325 WSM this year. If it returns from the gunsmith in time. I like this cartridge. I have carried it once prior, but no legal cooperative bull was seen.

Scopes vary, and change at times. But, 1.1-4x24, 1-6x24, 1.5-6x42, 1.5-8x42 dominate my scope use. I like scopes with ample field of views, and a highly visible reticles. I prefer 60’ at 100 yards as a minimum field of view.
I am going to take my Ruger, .375 Ruger with Leupold VX6 2-12X for my September AK moose hunt. It will be my first time up there. It will be a DIY drop camp hunt so I need to anchor the moose and not let him get off in the water or something.
Any moose hunting advice appreciated
Philip
 

ldmay375

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I am going to take my Ruger, .375 Ruger with Leupold VX6 2-12X for my September AK moose hunt. It will be my first time up there. It will be a DIY drop camp hunt so I need to anchor the moose and not let him get off in the water or something.
Any moose hunting advice appreciated
Philip
I am betting that you have already studied this. I don’t know how to send a link. I think the article has some valid basic information in.
I do “think I know” that weather is a big factor in activity, regardless if or not it is actually rut. I have seen times that I would have bet that there were no moose in my little micro-area. Though night pictures on the trail cam proved me wrong. The more heat the less physical and vocal activity.
I have shot bulls in the late evening, earlier morning, and early afternoon.

A9C1523E-76DC-4AD9-B6E6-F73AB1089572.png
 
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Rick Cox

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Natives in my area often use a 30-30. I told one guy I was going to loan a kid my 308. He gave me a painful look and said he'd get us a 30-30. He just hated the idea of any meat loss. Different perspectives. I had an old man tell me how they used to hunt moose with a .22. But they know how to track it. An instant kill was unlikely. Obviously that was a different time when salvaging every possible scrap of meat was more important i.e. back when you might actually miss meals if you didn't kill something.
yeah I concur on the .22 comment. But those moose were usually shot in winter and could be tracked or watched easily. Shoot him in the ribs or even the guts with a .22 and sooner or later he is going to lay down and get sicker and sicker....
 

camerl2009

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yeah I concur on the .22 comment. But those moose were usually shot in winter and could be tracked or watched easily. Shoot him in the ribs or even the guts with a .22 and sooner or later he is going to lay down and get sicker and sicker....
I heard about natives in Northern Ontario using .22s and shooting moose in the knees swhen they can't walk anymore they run up and put one in just behind the ear. Truth or not idk
 

Ryan

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A 30-06 in either my T/C Encore or Ruger #1. The cartridge because it has proven itself here in Alaska. No frills, it just works. The rifles are just my preference, the moose don't care.
 

Alaska Luke

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I am going to take my Ruger, .375 Ruger with Leupold VX6 2-12X for my September AK moose hunt. It will be my first time up there. It will be a DIY drop camp hunt so I need to anchor the moose and not let him get off in the water or something.
Any moose hunting advice appreciated
Philip
Philip there are lots of guys more knowledgeable than me but a few things people don't think of.
Alaska can be pretty swampy. More so then say Wyoming or Montana. Consider that with footwear choices. Really study up on how to judge antler size. I know very experienced hunters who got it wrong.
I am a huge fan of shooting sticks now. If you're in waste high willows you can't go prone for a shot the way you can in the Rockies.
If you come through the Palmer area send a PM. I'll probably be moose hunting but if not I love swapping hunting stories.
 
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I am a big fan of the 338 Winchester and the 225 grain TSX or similar bullet. I usually use my 375 or 416, but have yet to see one drop any faster than one I shot broadside chest with a 338 Winchester.
@Idmay375
Why not just get a 35 Whelen loaded with 250grain Speer hotcore at 2,700fps , that's the Whelen type of game the good colonel designed it for. The ideal near and far moose rifle.
Bob.
 

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