Community Designed AH Hunting Knife

[Ryan]

From what a lot of us gravitate to here I'd say think EDC. A 3-3.5 inch/ 7.5-8.75 cm blade. A slim drop point or clip point is my preference. I prefer synthetics for handles anymore, but good stable wood works. Go with something used as a fence post or railroad sleeper. Got some history and should be stable as they get.. If a kydex sheath is the choice go with a horizontal or angled type. If it's going to be on a belt it needs to be secore and not hanging down, which tends to get in the way.

 

[coreydb]

100% for anyone wanting the AH logo on their blade!

Thank you Jerome!

 

[skydiver386]

Jerome was kind enough to let me use the AH logo for the hats.

It's his call, but it has been used before on a few blades that were given as door prizes at AH dinners.

 

[RLD]

Any style under 5 inches and I am in. Great idea btw

 

[UNTAMED KNIVES]

3-3 1/2 inch full tang , I don’t usually need anything more, climbing in to trucks or boats
Anything more gets very uncomfortable and in the way. I personally prefer a carbon steel, that I acid etch or patina naturally with use .

Thanks for the input! Any carbon steel you are particularly fond of?

Hi Ross,

I carry a thin, 3.5" blade high quality folding pocket knife daily. I recently learned that although 3.5" is the legal length in my state of residence, some local jurisdictions only allow a 3" long blade.

If I were to order a folding knife, I would stick to a 3" blade. That's long enough for what I use a pocket knife for, and to my knowledge legal in most places... At least for now!

Thanks Mark. You may be interested in our folding knife drops then. Just launched the fish Eagle which is a 3 1/2” blade, but the next 2 will be smaller, the bateleur and the falcon.

I like the idea of an "Africa set" of knives as well, but maybe as a special order? That, or offer a separate small animal/game bird knife. Ross would have a wait list for years.....like Rigby

I can only hope knife making pays my bills, so that would be awesome!

And if there is enough interest, then an Africa set may be in the works too.

100% for anyone wanting the AH logo on their blade!

Awesome. Thanks Jerome!

 

[UNTAMED KNIVES]

From what a lot of us gravitate to here I'd say think EDC. A 3-3.5 inch/ 7.5-8.75 cm blade. A slim drop point or clip point is my preference. I prefer synthetics for handles anymore, but good stable wood works. Go with something used as a fence post or railroad sleeper. Got some history and should be stable as they get.. If a kydex sheath is the choice go with a horizontal or angled type. If it's going to be on a belt it needs to be secore and not hanging down, which tends to get in the way.

Thanks for the in depth info.

I’ve used synthetics, especially fond of micarta. I even have had great success in making my own micarta. The knife below is using my own stuff


On the wood front, all of our local hardwoods make great handles, but I’m especially fond of tambotie and Rhodesian teak, both of which were used for railway sleepers

Jerome was kind enough to let me use the AH logo for the hats.

It's his call, but it has been used before on a few blades that were given as door prizes at AH dinners.

Jerome has given us permission to, so using the AH logo is good to go!

Any style under 5 inches and I am in. Great idea btw

Thank you sir. Would definitely be within that figure.

 

[pilar]

Thanks for the input! Any carbon steel you are particularly fond of?

Thanks Mark. You may be interested in our folding knife drops then. Just launched the fish Eagle which is a 3 1/2” blade, but the next 2 will be smaller, the bateleur and the falcon.

I can only hope knife making pays my bills, so that would be awesome!

And if there is enough interest, then an Africa set may be in the works too.

Awesome. Thanks Jerome!

O-1 & AISI 1095 or W1/W2
I love M2 ( repurposed mill saw blade ) and W2 mill file blades

 

[UNTAMED KNIVES]

O-1 & AISI 1095 or W1/W2
I love M2 ( repurposed mill saw blade ) and W2 mill file blades

Excellent. I personally have a love of W2, especially when I’m chasing a hamon.

This was a Bowie I did recently in w2 and put a really nice aged patina into it

 

[coreydb]

Regardless of the steel, HRC 60 hardness to be a high quality utility/bush blade

 

[Mekaniks]

This is one of Gerry’s (Von Gruff) AH EDC with the AH logo that I gifted Phillip at Khomas Highland Safaris a couple years ago.

 

[UNTAMED KNIVES]

Regardless of the steel, HRC 60 hardness to be a high quality utility/bush blade

All of my blades are individually heat treated by me in house, to the exact recipe of the steel, so this is no problem

This is one of Gerry’s (Von Gruff) AH EDC with the AH logo that I gifted Phillip at Khomas Highland Safaris a couple years ago.
View attachment 760825

That’s a nice looking knife! Warthog tusk on the handle?

 

[Mekaniks]

All of my blades are individually heat treated by me in house, to the exact recipe of the steel, so this is no problem

That’s a nice looking knife! Warthog tusk on the handle?

Giraffe bone handle and Buffalo horn bolsters

 

[UNTAMED KNIVES]

Giraffe bone handle and Buffalo horn bolsters

Very nice. Two awesome materials I love working with. Recently did a buff horn folder with Damascus and man does buff horn take an awesome shine!

 

[Ryan]

Thanks for the in depth info.

I’ve used synthetics, especially fond of micarta. I even have had great success in making my own micarta. The knife below is using my own stuff
View attachment 760823

On the wood front, all of our local hardwoods make great handles, but I’m especially fond of tambotie and Rhodesian teak, both of which were used for railway sleepers

Jerome has given us permission to, so using the AH logo is good to go!

Thank you sir. Would definitely be within that figure.

My first outfitter had a dining table made of Rhodesian Teak. Great wood, and after decades in the elements stable as micarta, I bet.

 

[1dirthawker]

i agree with @beema re: shorter blade length. also, a very positive finger index behind the bolster (for no slippage onto a sharp blade) and a bit of serrations on the back for positive traction for the thumb with certain tasks (skinning) i prefer a full tang. kydex works for me because it is light, minimalist and works good. i'd be ok with high carbon steel, but i would leave that to your thoughts.

this is a very generous offer! thank you for making it.

 

[uplander01]

When I think of a knife for the bold spirited African outdoorsman I think utility, and in the USA when it comes to knives for utility that aren't ridiculously expensive, I think of LT Wright. It is a lot easier carry a 3.5" blade, but in bushcraft, skinning, boning, quartering, or defending yourself, IMO a knife needs to be at least middle of the road substantial, and there are 2 models by this company that I would trust. The "Wild Harvest" & "Shemanese" models.

Shemanese: The Long Knife – Built for the Bold, Crafted for the Capable

The Shemanese Long Knife, designed by survival expert Craig Caudill and handcrafted by LT Wright Handcrafted Knives, is the ultimate tool for serious outdoorsmen. Choose between AEB-L (saber grind) for toughness or A2 (flat grind) for precision. Built for bushcraft, survival, and adventure.

naturereliance.org

Wild Harvest Les Stroud Field Knife

Les Stroud’s Wild Harvest Field Knife had some very big demands placed on the design. It needed to fill the gap between the Foraging Tool and the Machete and Les feels this knife does so perfectly. This 5/32″ A2 tool steel professional grade tool is flat ground with a clip point. The A2 tool...

ltwrightknives.com

 

[Mekaniks]

I would like a square spine for use with ferro rod…

 

[UNTAMED KNIVES]

My first outfitter had a dining table made of Rhodesian Teak. Great wood, and after decades in the elements stable as micarta, I bet.

it’s an amazing wood. Here in Zim, almost everyone has some form of teak furniture in the house.

This folding knife shows teak when it’s freshly worked, and then it slowly turns a beautifully darker rich brown to red color.

i agree with @beema re: shorter blade length. also, a very positive finger index behind the bolster (for no slippage onto a sharp blade) and a bit of serrations on the back for positive traction for the thumb with certain tasks (skinning) i prefer a full tang. kydex works for me because it is light, minimalist and works good. i'd be ok with high carbon steel, but i would leave that to your thoughts.

this is a very generous offer! thank you for making it.

Thank you for all the input! Thumb jimping is an option.
Full tang is great, would certainly make the knife easier for me to make!

 

[UNTAMED KNIVES]

When I think of a knife for the bold spirited African outdoorsman I think utility, and in the USA when it comes to knives for utility that aren't ridiculously expensive, I think of LT Wright. It is a lot easier carry a 3.5" blade, but in bushcraft, skinning, boning, quartering, or defending yourself, IMO a knife needs to be at least middle of the road substantial, and there are 2 models by this company that I would trust. The "Wild Harvest" & "Shemanese" models.

Shemanese: The Long Knife – Built for the Bold, Crafted for the Capable

The Shemanese Long Knife, designed by survival expert Craig Caudill and handcrafted by LT Wright Handcrafted Knives, is the ultimate tool for serious outdoorsmen. Choose between AEB-L (saber grind) for toughness or A2 (flat grind) for precision. Built for bushcraft, survival, and adventure.

naturereliance.org

Wild Harvest Les Stroud Field Knife

Les Stroud’s Wild Harvest Field Knife had some very big demands placed on the design. It needed to fill the gap between the Foraging Tool and the Machete and Les feels this knife does so perfectly. This 5/32″ A2 tool steel professional grade tool is flat ground with a clip point. The A2 tool...

ltwrightknives.com

Thanks for the input, and those are great looking knives. I like the wild harvest in particular as I’m very partial to a full flat grind on a knife. For me it just makes sense to get the most curing performance out a knife made to be used in hunting.

I would like a square spine for use with ferro rod…

That’s an easy one to accommodate. Unless I’m doing a chefs knife where comfortably being able to pinch grip the knife is a thing, I generally have a nice square spine for ferro rods

 

[Fish2table]

I’d buy one. I do prefer the leather over kydex for the sheath.
Fish