Case lube

CBH Australia

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ive used Hornady one shot in aerosol and pump pack with varying results. Over many years
I’ve been using one branded by the gunshop and caused some cases to get stuck. Perhaps not applying enough.
There is a lot of stuff on the net about making your own with Isopropyl alcohol and liquid Lanolin. Also reference to spraying it in a bag and mixing it around. I’ve always done it in reloading tray but looking to avoid problems in future.

Any input appreciated
 
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ive used Hornady one shot in aerosol and pump pack with varying results. Over many years
I’ve been using one branded by the gunshop and caused some cases to get stuck. Perhaps not applying enough.
There is a lot of stuff on the net about making your own with Isopropyl alcohol and liquid Lanolin. Also reference to spraying it in a bag and mixing it around. I’ve always done it in reloading tray but looking to avoid problems in future.

Any input appreciated
@CBH Australia
Chris I've used a Redding lube pad and lube for years mate and only had 1 stuck case.
I also use Redding case neck lube a powdered graphite in spherical balls.
Dunny the case neck a couple of times and it avoids the button screeching in the case neck.
When you finish reloading just give the loaded rounds a quick wipe with a metho rag.
Bob
 

Shootist43

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Like anyone that has been reloading for a while (40 years for me) I've tried just about every lubing method with varying success. All resulted in the occasional stuck and or "oil canned" case. For the last five years or so I've been using RCBS Case Lube and dipping the necks into a graphite mixture. It is a slower process but one that so far has worked for me. I do most of my reloading on a Dillon 550 so dealing with a stuck case is a royal pain that I'd rather avoid.
 

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I use Hornady for the small stuff. It needs to sit a minute or so after spraying. For larger cases, Royal Case and Die Lube works well. I do not use the expander button.
 

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RCBS Case Lube-2 has worked for me since I started reloading just 4 years ago. But like @Shootist43, I have also gotten the graphite powder for the inside of the neck, so that I don't have to wash the case inside.

Haven't tried any other stuff. That little bottle really lasts a long time, probably more than half of it left after loading approx 1500 rounds.

If I was doing more bulk reloading, I could see myself doing it some other way.
 

Terry Blauwkamp

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If anyone would like to read and article I wrote a while back about case lube and substitutes, just send me a PM and I'll reply with attachments.
 
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@CBH Australia
Dunny the case neck a couple of times and it avoids the button screeching in the case neck.
When you finish reloading just give the loaded rounds a quick wipe with a metho rag.
Bob

Huh, what? In English please. I'm not very fluent in Aussie. ;-)
 

fourfive8

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Use of the "dunny brush" is where I draw the line!! :D

Seriously, I'm slow and old school. Steps in process: Deprime with separate, universal type decapping die. Clean primer pocket. Wipe brass with paper towel and acetone. Trim if necessary and chamfer in and out. Dip neck in mica (with small amount of graphite) and brush inside of neck. Roll on lube pad. Resize. Remove excess lube with paper towel and acetone. Prime and complete loading process.

For lube pad replenishment. I add lube by spreading and working in with fingers. I use whatever is handy like RCBS Case Lube although lanolin works equally well. I then spread on a small amount of Imperial Sizing Wax and work it into the pad with fingers. I try to roll on only enough lube to get job done. Some cases and applications only require a very small amount to neck and upper body. Others require more complete roll and more lube. I would much rather get an occasional lube dent in the shoulder than stick a case in the sizing die- no fun :(

case prep lube.JPG
 

CBH Australia

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Thanks,
It’s the bigger cases getting stuck,
I never used a lube pad but it’s their. Mostly been sprays
A lot of my early reloading was a on a super Simplex with 5/8 dies neck sizing only. Pro roo shooters would loaded millions of rounds that way.
I had a shit run with some once fired .243 I was give and blamed all the wrong things but I suspect it was poor lubrication thinking back.

Never considered removing expander and don’t own a universal
De-capper.

I think Hornady dies use an elliptical carbide expander . I have Hornady, Redding and some Simplex FLS dies In my gear.

Any thoughts on Wilson , Sinclair etc for hunters is there any real advantage?
 
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Like anyone that has been reloading for a while (40 years for me) I've tried just about every lubing method with varying success. All resulted in the occasional stuck and or "oil canned" case. For the last five years or so I've been using RCBS Case Lube and dipping the necks into a graphite mixture. It is a slower process but one that so far has worked for me. I do most of my reloading on a Dillon 550 so dealing with a stuck case is a royal pain that I'd rather avoid.
Shootist43
Art
I stuffed up it's RCBS case lube I use not Redding.
I agree it lasts a,long long time good stuff.
Bob
 

fourfive8

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Thanks,
It’s the bigger cases getting stuck,
I never used a lube pad but it’s their. Mostly been sprays
A lot of my early reloading was a on a super Simplex with 5/8 dies neck sizing only. Pro roo shooters would loaded millions of rounds that way.
I had a shit run with some once fired .243 I was give and blamed all the wrong things but I suspect it was poor lubrication thinking back.

Never considered removing expander and don’t own a universal
De-capper.

I think Hornady dies use an elliptical carbide expander . I have Hornady, Redding and some Simplex FLS dies In my gear.

Any thoughts on Wilson , Sinclair etc for hunters is there any real advantage?

I use all manner and brands of dies depending on best design, specific features or just happen to have them and they do the job well. I generally like RCBS, Lyman and Redding dies.

I use a universal decapper most of the time. I remove the neck expander ball and decapper rod from the sizing die for most cartridges and use a separate neck expander like a Lyman M die. It has a 2 step diameter mandrel that allows options for sizing for best neck tension and bullet starting with the initial long first "step" (that takes the place of the neck sizer button in most sizing dies) then has a shorter, very slight enlargement 2nd step for straight line, bullet starting if needed. It even allows for a small mouth flare at the end of the mandrel but I rarely used that except for certain carts/cast bullets that are quite a bit over size. The separate mandrel type neck expanding system completely eliminates the "skreetch", galling and potential case stretching caused by the expander ball when pulling it back through the neck. Of course neck brushing with a dry lube helps that issue . The Lyman M uses standard sizes for their expanders but if a slightly different size is needed they are available from sources here in the US like Buffalo Arms.

pic of Lyman M expander mandrel
Lyman M die expander mandrel .JPG
 
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Luvthunt

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Never had a neck push back on case shoulders of a 416 Rigby with Imperial sizing wax or a stuck case either.
 

Hunter4752001

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G'day Chris. For the outside of the case I just apply and smear of lanolin using my fingers. You should be able to get a 50g jar of Gold Cross Wool Fat Lanolin from your local chemist (much better than all the "lanolin" creams which are really 90% fillers and oil). Lanolin is a bit sticky but is a great high pressure lubricant. You will have to use some rags to wipe down your fingers and each of the cases afterwards.
(Went down a to the local chemist the other day to buy a couple of jars. He looked a bit puzzled that I wanted 2 jars and asked me what I used them for. Apparently he doesn't sell many. He looked really surprised when I told him.)
 

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While I have less than half the reloading experience as @Shootist43 (about 15 years I reckon) I've also tried about everything for case lube. I'm hooked on Imperial Sizing Die Wax. Love the stuff and haven't had a stuck case or a dented shoulder since I started using it. From 223 to 375 and everything in between.

My (new) process is:
  1. Deprime using Lyman universal decapping die
  2. Wet tumble if brass is dirty, dry tumble if pretty clean already
  3. Resize and expand using Imperial case lube and carbide expander ball (same die/step)
  4. Trim, chamfer, deburr
  5. Another dry tumble to smooth the chamfer/deburr and remove any left-over case lube
I say "new process" because I finally broke down recently and purchased a universal decapping die and the wet tumbler. For a guy with OCD who is comforted by pretty brass, this is the way to go.
 

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With the exception of Imperial Wax for a quick one or two cases - Hornady One Shot is all I've used for at least 10 years. Works great if you Shake it up Really Good(!), and hit your tray of cases from all four sides. i.e., use enough. Spraying at a 45 degree angle also gets the inside of the neck.

Not cheap, but a great time saver.
I think I threw my lube pad away in a prior century. :)

BTW, the lid off a container of new Lapua cases makes the perfect lubing tray. Dividers are shallow enough to spray right down to the case web.
 
 

 

 

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