Broadhead sharpening

[dailordasailor]

I decided this year to go pretty heavy into archery after having a bow for last 10 years and only killing one deer and a couple pigs. Sooo, bought a Mathew’s, researched all the best arrows, heads, sights, etc. have a elk hunt coming up in September.

I settled on Magnus stinger 2 blade heads. I have no idea how to sharpen the blades before the hunt or going forward so looking for a semi dummy proof sharpening tool/process people recommend. For reference I carry a $30 knife daily that doubles as a pry bar, screwdriver etc so I’ve never had one last long enough to really sharpen that either. So be a complete newb to the process.

thanks for any tips/suggestions

 

[Tra3]

The KME broadhead sharpener is very effective. I also use it to sharpen my hunting knives. I was so pleased with the result, I sharpened my kitchen knives with it.
The kit is useful and small. I have brought it on hunting trips as well as to friends houses to sharpen knives for them.

 

[Ryan]

I use a Lansky system for anything fixed blade including stropping the blades of my SlickTricks with a fine stone. I keep it simple, 25 degree angle.

 

[BourbonTrail]

Check out the Ranch Fairy (not kidding) videos on broadheads and sharpening. The rest of his videos are worth watching too.

 

[375 Ruger Fan]

I recently purchased a couple of "Stay Sharp" guides ( https://staysharpguide.com/ )for my single bevel, two bladed broadheads, based on info from Lusk Archery videos. My Iron Will broadheads are 32 degree and my VPA broadheads are 35 degrees, so I had to purchase two different guides.

 

[dailordasailor]

I'm familiar with ranch fairy but watching that video now to see what he recomends. Thanks!

 

[dailordasailor]

Just ordered the stay sharp for the stingers. What do you all recommend for the different grits to use? Ranch fairy video shows some then Stay Sharp site shows some diffrerent. Ordered the polishing compound also so will finish them off to shiny/sharp. At least i'll have something to use as a mirror if need to do my makeup.

 

[1dirthawker]

@dailordasailor,

i have used the stay sharp sharpener, they work great, but get the dimond stones, not the sandpaper. work sharp also makes a sharpener similar to the lansky and uses diamonds as well. i would recommend looking it up on youtube to see if it interests you. mine works great and my pocket knife is always sharp thanks to it.

 

[dailordasailor]

I’ll be sharpening for first time this week (USPS lost my package) and will try with the sandpaper. Sandpaper is dirt cheap for more then I could ever use up. I will look into the diamond though

 

[rookhawk]

I decided this year to go pretty heavy into archery after having a bow for last 10 years and only killing one deer and a couple pigs. Sooo, bought a Mathew’s, researched all the best arrows, heads, sights, etc. have a elk hunt coming up in September.

I settled on Magnus stinger 2 blade heads. I have no idea how to sharpen the blades before the hunt or going forward so looking for a semi dummy proof sharpening tool/process people recommend. For reference I carry a $30 knife daily that doubles as a pry bar, screwdriver etc so I’ve never had one last long enough to really sharpen that either. So be a complete newb to the process.

thanks for any tips/suggestions

Sharpening is a rabbit hole you can go down that has no end to it. I've spent a fortune on snake oil and magic beans technologies trying to get a sharper edge on blades and I endorse none of them. Anytime you adjust your bevel by the stroke of your hand you're creating a secondary bevel. In time, under a microscope what it looks like is a barn's gable roof. It's sharp for a fleeting second, but not that sharp. One sloppy stroke and ten minutes of work can be unraveled by a bad angle as well.

What I figured out as a sharpening imbecile with very high standards of sharp is that I can get anything with a single bevel razor sharp by stropping. Instead of guessing on angles or working with expensive tools and jigs, you just strop away from you with the bevel sitting flat against the strop. You can feel the bevel and you can see the results of the polished angle.

A good strop bat will have four leather pieces on four sides of the bat. Three sides get three different grades of stropping compound applied and the final side is natural for final touch up. It takes longer to get the edge going because the compounds are very fine, but the results are razor, razor sharp. It will especially take a long time on a magnus stinger that has lots of tooling marks on the blades edge you can see and feel.

Magnus stingers are "entry level" mass manufactured broadheads. They are excellent, the very best you can buy at that pricepoint, but they are crude. Stropping them for ten minutes or more each while watching TV will get them wicked sharp. You'll need to redo the stropping for about 5 minutes each at the beginning of each season because they do chemically dull just sitting in the quiver in normal atmosphere each year.

It's the very best $30 you'll ever spend.

JRE-Industries, Inc.

Our main business is Leather Sheaths. We also have sharpening items and other accessories for your outdoor needs.

jreindustries.com

Sidenote: If you enjoy the results with your broad heads, Scandi Bevel hunting knives are equally easy to strop to razor sharpness and you may find you no longer wish to own any knife with a secondary bevel. @Von Gruff on this forum makes extraordinary quality knives and offers several with scandi bevels.

 

[BeeMaa]

I agree with @rookhawk - sharpening is a worm hole. I have systems from Spyderco, Lansky diamond deluxe, Work Sharp and a few more...it's a mess.

The key is to take your time with whatever system you are using. I prefer the Lansky (much like the KME suggested by @Tra3) for my hunting knives. Gets them sharp enough to shave with and a consistent edge. Kitchen knives get sent to a professional every couple of years for a 17 degree edge (about $10 per blade) and I may start using him for my hunting knives as well. And it would allow me to garage sale every sharpener except for a honing tool.

Not sure if professionals will sharpen broadheads, but I don't see why not. If you want to save yourself from the money pit that is sharpening...pay a pro. It's worth it.

 

[Tra3]

I agree with @rookhawk - sharpening is a worm hole. I have systems from Spyderco, Lansky diamond deluxe, Work Sharp and a few more...it's a mess.

The key is to take your time with whatever system you are using. I prefer the Lansky (much like the KME suggested by @Tra3) for my hunting knives. Gets them sharp enough to shave with and a consistent edge. Kitchen knives get sent to a professional every couple of years for a 17 degree edge (about $10 per blade) and I may start using him for my hunting knives as well. And it would allow me to garage sale every sharpener except for a honing tool.

Not sure if professionals will sharpen broadheads, but I don't see why not. If you want to save yourself from the money pit that is sharpening...pay a pro. It's worth it.

There is value to this! Unless sharpening is an enjoyable pastime during cold winter months when it gets dark at 5:00 pm. Knife sharpening keeps me away from the TV on mundane weekday evening.

I also bring my KNE sharpening kit when I go on hunts out west. I enjoy it after dinner and before bed. I don’t drink anymore, so I gotta do something!

 

[DonPablo]

Which Stay sharp would you recommend for Dirtnap's DRTs?

 

[dailordasailor]

i thought they had one specifically for the Dirtnap. If not just need to know the bevel angle

 

[DonPablo]

i thought they had one specifically for the Dirtnap. If not just need to know the bevel angle

I'll e-mail dirt nap and ask. I tried e-mailing the people at staysharp and never got a reply.