How to begin? I've always kept my knives sharp. In my youth it was with a flat oil stone and a strop. Later I introduced an Arkansas Stone (600 grit) into the mix. This effort required many hours of concentrated effort. Why, because a slight shift or change in the angle between the knife and the stone could wipe out the edge. The only way to manually keep the same or a consistant angle is with some sort of jig. Hence the Lu Ray or Lansky type sharpening system. Over the years I've added finer grit stones as they came available. Mind you I do not abuse my knives, borrowing Von Gruff's words "they are for cutting skin and meat." Over a number of years I "field dressed" 11 White-tailed Deer, including punching my Cold Steel Carbon V Master Hunter through the breast bone before it required resharpening. I got out my trusty Lu Ray and went to work. It took many hours to get the knife resharpened to one of the angles available. Once the angle had been changed it is a simple matter to maintain it when required, which is very seldom. I began accumulating Cold Steel Carbon V Master Hunters for my grandkids use off Ebay since they were no longer being made. In most cases the previous owners had attempted unsuccessfully to resharpen them. Not wanting to spend the time to sharpen them by hand I had two choices, send them back to the factory or find another method read (less manual) to sharpen them. Shipping costs and sharpening costs if sent to the factory would be $25 -30 per knife. Since there are over 10 to be sharpened I decided to purchase a Work Sharp. I tried it on the first knife and was able to get it razor sharp in less than 20 minutes. But, on the downside the edge is now very slightly convex. I'm not sure that is going to be a problem. After thinking about it for a while and doing some reading of the literature that came with the Work Sharp a convex edge has just a little more steel behind the edge than a chisel cut. IMHO that should make the edge stronger not weaker. Any blade that is sharpened via a sanding belt not having a backing plate immediately behind the point where the blade is being sharpened causes the belt to flex / deflect slightly which will result in a slightly convex edge angle. I don't know how to measure the slight difference but am reasonably sure it is only tenths of thousandth of an inch. The edge that I put on with my Work Sharp reflects light in the manner described by Ray B in a previous post. I need to add that the final step in the process is to strop the knife.