Barrel-mounted swivel stud

Trail Rated

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I’m thinking about redoing an old rifle — new or refurbished stock, reblueing the metal, etc. While I’m in there messing around I’d also like to add a barrel-mounted swivel. Is it possible to do so without removing the front sight? I’ve only seen Talley studs that are on a ring that has to be slid over the barrel.

How delicate an operation is this?
 

CBH Australia

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Look online. There are a clamp on style in a couple of sizes and styles.
One I think pulls right around and another 2 pieces that come together.
Brand s, “UncleMike’s” Maybe

They don’t look quite like the traditional barrel band buyback I don’t have one either.

Was hoping to put one on a big bore for traditional Safari rifle look but I believe the process is to sweat off the front sight with an Oxy or similar gas heating equipment. Slide on the band and solder it then re solder the front sight.

Then i guess it’s re-Blue Whole barreled action to match
 

Ray B

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CP Donnelly's preferred method of mounting a sling swivel to the barrel was to skip the band and solder the bracket directly to the bottom of the barrel.
 

ZG47

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When you solder a sling swivel stud to the underside of a barrel, it has to be done right. If not, the barrel will push against one branch too many whilst the rifle is slung on the shoulder, the stud will come away and the rifle will fall on the ground. THAT is why the solder-on and screw-clamp styles of barrel-mount sling swivel/stud are the preferred options.
A now deceased acquaintance of mine had a European made rifle, chambered in 9.3x62 with a soldered-underneath sling swivel stud. The objective end of his scope was permanently dented when the rifle fell on the ground after the solder gave way but because the housing went about 3/4 of an inch past the lens, the scope was still useable
 

Luvthunt

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Could you use black max or Loctite red for fastening the swivel to the barrel?
 

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Could you use black max or Loctite red for fastening the swivel to the barrel?
Only if you are using a clamp on style.
You would use those products as thread locker on the screws in a clamp fitting .
I would be wary of using a soldered stud on a 10pound big bore unless it has a band going around the barrel.
If you want "The Look" then a barrel band that goes right around and is soldered on is the old style that looks traditional and looks good. Thats the look that i like and you can be sure it wont fail.
 

Ray B

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DSC_0870A.jpg
DSC_0871A.jpg


Above is the sling swivel that was part of the rifle built for me by CP Connelly about 30 years ago. It only weighs about 7 pounds, chamber for a 257 AI so I don't suppose the swivel has needed to absorb a lot of stress, however for all of its use, it has never even hinted at failing.
 

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Thanks for everyone’s replies. If it helps, the rifle in question is my old (I need to start saying “vintage”) Steyr Mannlicher in 8x56mm. It weighs less than 7 lbs and is a little more than a meter in length. Being short and relatively light, the rifle’s recoil with the 208 grain ammo is noticeable.
 

Brian Rothhammer

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the rifle in question is my old (I need to start saying “vintage”) Steyr Mannlicher in 8x56mm.

Why not use a swivel that screws into the stock as used originally on the Mannlicher Schoenauer Take Down Model?
38818722ai.jpg


From New England Custom Gun, $22.00 USD and done:
38818779sc.jpg


They have several other options: https://www.newenglandcustomgun.com/products.php?cat=296

This $26.00 solder on type has the proper looking MS swivel as well:
38818805hb.jpg


Grand Dad's M1910 (9.5X57) Takedown Model:
38818833ra.jpg
 

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