A Battalion Of Miniature Vampires With Wings- My First Taste Of African Wildlife!

Sue Tidwell

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A few forum members were hoping I had some stories to share so I figured I’d start with my very first impression of African WILDLIFE. I’m wondering who among you can relate?!

Rungwa West Game Reserve, Tanzania. “As we stepped from the bush plane, we were slammed with a wall of heat even worse than the day before. While adjusting to the sudden temperature change, Masimba Camp’s staff scurried to transfer the gear and supplies into two Land Cruisers for the final leg of our journey.

“It’s a short drive. Only 45 minutes,” they assured us. “Maybe we’ll even see animals.”

That perked us up a bit. After quick introductions, Rod, Sue (yes another Sue), Rick, and I crammed into the open-air bench seat positioned high above the enclosed cab of the Land Cruiser, giving us a great vantage point for the wildlife we were sure to see.

Nothing, and I mean nothing, could have prepared us for what awaited us.

Almost the moment we left the airstrip, we were attacked by a battalion of ravenous miniature vampires with wings. Keep in mind, I’m not talking about the righteous vampires from the “Twilight” movies that were popular a few years back. I’m talking about Africa’s infamous Tsetse flies, bloodsuckers that hurt worse than any bee sting I’ve ever experienced. Also, just like vampires, they refuse to die. Swatting them against your thigh or arm deters them for just a bit. Then they come back with a vengeance.

In our months of preparation, we had been warned of the Tsetse flies' presence in the Tanzanian bush and had packed accordingly. We had mosquito nets, long-sleeved shirts, leather gloves, bug sprays, bug-repellent bracelets, and even insect-repelling body oils -- all stashed on the other Land Cruiser. Definitely, a rookie move.

Wearing T-shirts and lacking our Tsetse-fly arsenal, we made easy pickings for the gorging insects. Our long hiking pants also did little to help. Even through the fabric, they drew blood. Tsetse flies have a special awl arrangement on their bills, enabling them to bore through three layers of canvas, or so we’d read in Robert Roark’s “Horn of the Hunter.” Surely he exaggerated, we naively presumed. Unfortunately, the insects lived up to their loathsome reputation. Even Rod and Sue had never dealt with them on their previous safaris and therefore were just as surprised by the insatiable assault.

Wedged in like sardines in a can while bouncing down a bumpy Tsetse-fly-infested road, we performed a slapstick comedy routine resembling “The Three Stooges.” Our arms flailed about wildly, swatting and whacking at the bloodsuckers while our legs took their own evasive actions, stomping and kicking erratically. It was not each man for themselves. As friends, we took liberties to swat each other wherever necessary to keep the nasty buggers from landing long enough to draw blood. Suddenly, the unexpected onslaught, coupled with extreme exhaustion, caused us to burst into hysterical laughter.

Who would have guessed that our first truly memorable experience in the African bush had absolutely nothing to do with one of Africa’s iconic species? No majestic lion, lumbering elephant, or browsing giraffe. No. Our first notable memory was of a tiny little fly.”

Note: These nasty little buggers were a huge wake-up call for me. They made it very clear – physically and mentally – why not all parts of Africa are suitable for general tourism. Please don’t take offense to this….BUT only HUNTERS are crazy enough to endure the misery of Tsetse flies!

By the way, I'm new to the site. I'm hoping I posted this in the right place.

Sue Tidwell-African Safari Adventure-Wildlife Conservation-Tsetse Fly gear.JPG
Sue Tidwell-African Safari Adventure-Wildlife Conservation-Tsetse Fly Gear 2.JPG
 
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Great story Sue! You posted it perfectly as far as I can tell. All of us who’ve hunted in the bush have enjoyed a similar experience. Tsetse flies are the worst! Mopane bees are an annoyance til one gets used to them. I can’t believe anyone gets used to tsetse flies! My buddy @Jeff505 seems to attract them, which is odd since mosquitoes don’t trouble him much at all.
 
Welcome to AH Sue.

Good story. Tsetse can come as a shock if a person isn't ready for them.

Photo below is from some Rungwa vampires. ;)

1671396114366.png
 
I hunted in Zimbabwe with Doug3006 in 2021, we were in the Zambezi valley (Dande) with CMS. We hunted about 30 miles apart each day, Doug’s area had no Tsetse flies while my hunting area was infested. I found none of the repellents I brought had any effect on them. After being on the sticks one afternoon waiting for a Sable to present a proper shot my PH told me not to move as a cow in the group had spotted us. The shot was possible and taken after an additional 15 minutes of not moving. Were my binoculars straps crossed my back and pulled my shirt tight I wound up with an X pattern in fly bites, a memorable trophy.
 
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Great story Sue! You posted it perfectly as far as I can tell. All of us who’ve hunted in the bush have enjoyed a similar experience. Tsetse flies are the worst! Mopane bees are an annoyance til one gets used to them. I can’t believe anyone gets used to tsetse flies! My buddy @Jeff505 seems to attract them, which is odd since mosquitoes don’t trouble him much at all.
Hi Doug, I don't think I ever experienced Mopane bees...and I'm assuming that I would know if I did. Typically, mosquitos and other bugs don't bother me too much either. BUT Tsetse flies are a whole other matter. Lilian, our game scout, called them Angry Little Devils. In fact, I used her term to name one of the chapters in the book!
 
They are angry little devils! Mopane bees are tiny (for a bee) and stingless. They seek moisture like sweat, tears etc. They fly around in formations of biblical proportions. They mob your face, eyes and nostrils. Just an annoyance really and I have been able to muster the patience to ignore them. There is no ignoring tsetse flys!
 
They are angry little devils! Mopane bees are tiny (for a bee) and stingless. They seek moisture like sweat, tears etc. They fly around in formations of biblical proportions. They mob your face, eyes and nostrils. Just an annoyance really and I have been able to muster the patience to ignore them. There is no ignoring tsetse flys!
Isn't that the truth! They looks so tiny an innocent, smaller than our normal house flies but wow they pack a punch.
 
I hunted in Zimbabwe with Doug3006 in 2021, we were in the Zambezi valley (Dande) with CMS. We hunted about 30 miles apart each day, Doug’s area had no Tsetse flies while my hunting area was infested. I found none of the repellents I brought had any effect on them. After being on the sticks one afternoon waiting for a Sable to present a proper shot my PH told me not to move as a cow in the group had spotted us. The shot was possible and taken after an additional 15 minutes of not moving. Were my binoculars straps crossed my back and pulled my shirt tight I wound up with an X pattern in fly bites, a memorable trophy.
Oh my gosh, I can't imagine having to stand still and let them molest you while you were stalking! Did you take pictures of the unique "trophy"! The Tsetse flies mainly seemed to hit us when we were on the vehicle moving. Then they would disappear as suddenly as they showed up. It was so weird. There didn't seem to be a rhyme or reason to it. Also, our battalion of insect repellents did SQUAT! Finally, our trackers started burning elephant dung on the back of the Land Cruiser in a tin....and the smoke helped keep them away. They said they learned it from Cabelas!
 
Used to be known as “the saviours of Africa”

Potentially carrying bovine ‘trypanosomiasis’ they made large areas of the African bush unsuitable for cattle and minimised human impact from subsistence farming
I know! I was amazed to learn that when I was researching for my book. Now I am very thankful for the nasty little buggers...especially when I am here and they are there! It is terrifying to imagine what Africa might look like if it hadn't been them and the deadly disease they carry. I actually mention this in my "Angry Little Devils" chapter. I like the name "the saviors of Africa" though. I wish I would have known that nickname when I was writing the book. Our game scout called them "Angry little devils" so that is where the chapter title came from.
 
Welcome to AH Sue.

Good story. Tsetse can come as a shock if a person isn't ready for them.

Photo below is from some Rungwa vampires. ;)

View attachment 506232
What a great picture of the nasty little buggers. Yes, we THOUGHT we had ready for them....but nothing really prepares you for the real thing. Our repellents certainly didn't work. On the Land Cruiser, I kept a blanket with me and covered up when they attacked. Plus our trackers were so sweet. They grabbed branches and swatched them away from us the best they could while they were assaulted mercilessly. This may be a dumb question but is Rungwa a different game research, I'm assuming very near to Rungwa West? Thanks for sharing the picture.
 
What a great picture of the nasty little buggers. Yes, we THOUGHT we had ready for them....but nothing really prepares you for the real thing. Our repellents certainly didn't work. On the Land Cruiser, I kept a blanket with me and covered up when they attacked. Plus our trackers were so sweet. They grabbed branches and swatched them away from us the best they could while they were assaulted mercilessly. This may be a dumb question but is Rungwa a different game research, I'm assuming very near to Rungwa West? Thanks for sharing the picture.

Rungwa Game Reserve is divided up into around eight hunting blocks along the northwest side of Ruaha NP. Most of the Rungwa game reserve concessions southeast border is the NP.

I don't know if Rungwa West is the official name of one of the concessions but I could be wrong. Who was the outfitter you were hunting with?

Good trackers go out of the way to make sure the client is as comfortable as possible!
 
Rungwa Game Reserve is divided up into around eight hunting blocks along the northwest side of Ruaha NP. Most of the Rungwa game reserve concessions southeast border is the NP.

I don't know if Rungwa West is the official name of one of the concessions but I could be wrong. Who was the outfitter you were hunting with?

Good trackers go out of the way to make sure the client is as comfortable as possible!
We hunted with Hilary Daffi Safaris but that was in 2015. Unfortunately since then, things have changed quite a bit….thanks in large part to Cecil the lion debacle. Hikary took on a partner and it is called something else now. Maybe the names have changed. It was Rungwa west Game Reserve when we were there….or at least that is what I was told etc when they showed me the maps. I LOVED our trackers! Mgogo gave me all kinds of cool stuff. Porcupine quills, tufts of lion hair, etc.
 
@Sue Tidwell

I started the Kindle Unlimited version last night. Loving you style so far.

"...crazy. Bat-shit crazy. Literally."
 
Well, I know how far you made it in the book! LOL. I'm so happy you are enjoying it so far...and thanks so much for reading it.
 

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