.458 WM Project

amschind

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I have been lurking here for quite some time, and after all of the great information that I have gotten for free, I will try to share some experiences which may help otheres. This is a companion thread to another in the .375 and blow forum, with regard to a 2 gun battery that I'm building for Africa.

Briefly, I found a few very cheap and very abused M1938 K.Kale Turk Mausers (in essence, that means that they were new production 1898-type receivers from Turkey with a large ring outer diamter and a small ring sized barrel shank). I wrangled 24" finish length .366 (PACNOR) and .458 (Lilja) stainless barrels, a highly figured Circassian blank from Macon for the 9.3 and a more linear grained Circassian blank from Boyd's for the .458. I got Case hardened 1" Talley rings for both, and got the last of the lightweight Leupold Fixed power scopes (2.5x20 for the .458 and a 6x36 for the 9.3). A custom gunmaker in Canada named Ralf Martini makes beautiful guns that are simply out of my price range (I apologize in advance anyone who looks him up and then gets divorced due to "You spent $25000 on a rifle!?"), but he's an extremely nice guy and was happy to sell me very pretty pivoting release bottom metal at a very reasonable price. I got new Timney triggers for both as well as M70 style 3-position bolt shrouds. Finally, I found new firing pins, extractors, and spring sets as I have no idea what the maintenance on or use of these guns was in the 80 years between manufacture and my purchase (given the fact that one had nearly rusted through the barrel because not all of the patches were removed from the bore and both stocks looked like driftwood, I will estimate "rough"). Still, the actual actions were both in remarkably good shape, which made them great candidates for sporters (I am actually quite proud of myself, as around the same time I bought a M1935 Chilean Orden y Patria carbine which is a beautiful Oberndorf Mauser 7x57mm, and restored it to its former glory instead of butchering it). My gunsmith leans into the "cheap and good" leg of the "Cheap/Fast/Good" triangle, so I still have a wait in front of me.

I almost exclusively handload, so apart from the factory ammo that I bought for my gunsmith to test fire the rifles, they will only be fed handloads unless my ammo vanishes in transit to RSA et c (which is a big reason for the caliber selection above; I would've happily done a .375 Hawk/Scovill and .458 B&M, but good luck finding that in the field). For the .458, recoil is a concern. I started considering this when a friend let me shoot/roped me into helping him sight in his 9.3 from a bench. I realized that standing, it wasn't bad at all. We became friends and I ultimately got to shoot his .416 RM and .505 Gibbs, and I have not had the desire to shoot the Gibbs again. My initial plan was a 9.3 only with 300 grain solids and expanding 286s, but I quickly realized thanks to this forum that doing so might put a crimp on where I could legally go for buffalo. I don't have an interest in any of the Big Five EXCEPT for buffalo, but I would feel cheated if I went to Africa and didn't get one. The old gunsmith with a waxed handlebar moustache in my hometown had a buffalo on the wall of his little shop, and I've wanted one ever since. So that gets me to the need for a legal everywhere DG caliber with available ammo in case my handloads somehow vanish.

To that end, I am only developing a 500 grain Hornady DGS load for this rifle, as it'll stay at camp unless the law demands that I use it (see my thread on the 9.3). I find that I understand less and less about recoil the older that I get. My .50 BMG is pleasant to shoot because it weighs 40# and has a muzzle brake stolen from an M60 tank: it will move you, but gently. My 6.5 Creedmoor with a brake is actually far less pleasant to shoot than my .300 WSM, but the real head-scratcher is that my great-grandfather's 1894 with 170 grain bullets is actually unpleasant even from the shoulder. The .458 has a light sporter barrel and a 2.5x Leupold scope (which has great eye relief), such that the whole thing will probably weigh 8.5# with a full magazine. There is still plenty of time to get the muzzle threaded, but after looking at this forum it still appears that the Great Muzzle Device Debate is still hotly contested. I certainly don't want to deafen anyone, particularly not a poor African guy who depends upon his hearing to make a living, but I have also noticed that Midway is now running regular specials on "pass through" electronic earmuffs. They had Walkers sets on sale for $40 each just last week, and I would be just fine passing those out like party favors if it meant that I got to use a brake. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
 
I think that you are in the right place to get some answers. I will offer my thoughts on caliber, recoil, and muzzle breaks.

Recoil - I have joked with my friends that the best cure for recoil is watching my 120LB wife shoot my 416 Rigby. The point I am trying to make is that ultimately, if you you don't have an injury or some other specific physical consideration, recoil is something that you can learn to manage. You will almost always be shooting off of sticks, and this obviously makes a huge difference. I use a recoil pad and a firm grip to zero scopes and test loads, and then the rest of my shooting is from sticks.

Caliber - Most buffalo in Africa are shot with a .375, probably followed by .416 (I am referring only to clients, and not back up shots by PHs). I own a .458 Lott, and will one day shoot a buffalo with it. I also hope to one day use a double. However, anything larger than a .416 is limiting if you are walking on buffalo, and see something else on your list. With that said, if you already a own a .458WM, and like it, I would talk to your PH/Outfitter and get his thoughts.

Muzzle Breaks - I have a muzzle break on the 300WM that I have used on almost 2 dozen African animals. I have also used it on various ibex, elk, etc. I love this rifle, will continue to use it, and don't want to make any changes. However, I sometimes wish that it did not have the muzzle break for 3 reasons: 1.) my ears when I forget or don't have time to stuff the ear plugs in, 2.) my guides/ trackers ears, and 3.) it alerts game and can decrease the opportunity for a 2nd shot if you miss or make a bad shot. I have seen muzzle breaks on some very nice big bore rifles, so it is not unheard of. With that said, you might be better served by picking up a .375 or a .416 instead of putting a muzzle break on a .458. After all, the cost of a new rifle is relatively small compared to the cost of the hunt.

I hope this helps, and best of luck!
 
Just to ad something:
I was recoil shy too and healed it by optimising my guns, start reloading and hitting the range at least once a week! Plenty Practice is the way out of this Dilemma! Good luck!
 
I put together a two rifle set similar to what you are envisioning. Recoil is not a consideration, after 50 years of shooting heavy recoiling rifles, that mental block has been defeated. Recoil won't kill you.
My set was built on Stainless Ruger M77 Mark II rifles, with Bob Jury barrels and chambered for .375 WSM and .458 WM. The .375 WSM sports a 24" barrel and a 4-12 Leupold scope, while the .458 WM was built as a quick handling Carbine with 20" barrel and NECG open sights, plus a Leupold VX-R 2-7X33 optic. I have various loads worked up for both rifles, from 235 grain to 300 grain in the .375 WSM ans 350 grain to 500 grain in the .458 WM. My reasoning for a fast .375 caliber rifle was that it can reach out with a good payload on larger game, plus can play back up to the .458 WM on DG if required. I went with Stainless and B&C synthetic stocks, to better handle rough conditions and inclement weather. This set can handle anything the world of hunting offers.

20240807_103608.jpg
 
Thanks for the advice. I'm more than happy to find that a brake isn't needed on the .458. My thinking was that a threaded barrel may be the best compromise in that it's almost instantly convertible between bog standard, reduced recoil at the cost of muzzle blast, and reduced muzzle blast for the shooter and hunting pretty in the form of a linear compensator. The only guaranteed downside is a thread protector, which I bet I can make less hideous. I think that the one real error is Magna Porting, since every other brake is removable in the field.

Rosch, to your point, I think the big payoff for a muzzle brake is as a practice tool. If I can fire 15 rounds with a brake but only 8 without, I am doubling my practice. Shooting the 9.3 may solve the same issue. That said, a linear compensator actually reduces report for the hunting party without improving recoil, so that might allow a threaded muzzle DG rifle to rapidly convert from low recoil practice to low shooter noise hunting even when suppressors are tough to come by. Buying a can in RSA was my original plan, but I quickly realized that the already highly nonstandard big bore thread sizes are even more nonstandard when you convert to metric threads on a different continent.


Hoyt, I love that setup, and my main hunting rifle since I was 17 has been an M70 stainless classic in .300 WSM. It has a Timney trigger, Williams extractor, welded bolt handle with a big knob, a 29" 1-9" proof carbon barrel with a Fat Bastard muzzle brake and a Manners stock. The 4-24 vx6hd is awesome, and with the carbon barrel it's actually not bad from the shoulder (it was bipod only when I had a stainless barrel). Both of these new guns have stainless barrels so that a mistake doesn't ruin a bore on an otherwise pristine gun. Point being, I completely get your point, I just wanted a pair of "pretty" guns for a change.
 
I think that you are in the right place to get some answers. I will offer my thoughts on caliber, recoil, and muzzle breaks.

Recoil - I have joked with my friends that the best cure for recoil is watching my 120LB wife shoot my 416 Rigby. The point I am trying to make is that ultimately, if you you don't have an injury or some other specific physical consideration, recoil is something that you can learn to manage. You will almost always be shooting off of sticks, and this obviously makes a huge difference. I use a recoil pad and a firm grip to zero scopes and test loads, and then the rest of my shooting is from sticks.

Caliber - Most buffalo in Africa are shot with a .375, probably followed by .416 (I am referring only to clients, and not back up shots by PHs). I own a .458 Lott, and will one day shoot a buffalo with it. I also hope to one day use a double. However, anything larger than a .416 is limiting if you are walking on buffalo, and see something else on your list. With that said, if you already a own a .458WM, and like it, I would talk to your PH/Outfitter and get his thoughts.

Muzzle Breaks - I have a muzzle break on the 300WM that I have used on almost 2 dozen African animals. I have also used it on various ibex, elk, etc. I love this rifle, will continue to use it, and don't want to make any changes. However, I sometimes wish that it did not have the muzzle break for 3 reasons: 1.) my ears when I forget or don't have time to stuff the ear plugs in, 2.) my guides/ trackers ears, and 3.) it alerts game and can decrease the opportunity for a 2nd shot if you miss or make a bad shot. I have seen muzzle breaks on some very nice big bore rifles, so it is not unheard of. With that said, you might be better served by picking up a .375 or a .416 instead of putting a muzzle break on a .458. After all, the cost of a new rifle is relatively small compared to the cost of the hunt.

I hope this helps, and best of luck!

I wanted to reply to your point about the .375 and .416 specifically. I started with just the 9.3x62 because after shooting one, I realized that the recoil was nothing to be scared of. As I looked more into things and realized that I might run afoul of regulations hunting buffalo with a 9.3, I decided to add the .458. My reasoning for bypassing the highly of practical calibers that you mentioned is that I didn't want to build a whole new rifle that mostly overlapped with the 9.3. If I find that nobody minds me shooting a buffalo with a 300 grain DGS from the 9.3, that's honestly my preference because I will have many more rounds through the 9.3 vs the .458. If the .458 is a fun novelty "elephant gun" that annihilates pumpkins and waits for the 9.3 back at camp, that's still a good outcome on my view.

I hope that helps some.
 
I wanted to reply to your point about the .375 and .416 specifically. I started with just the 9.3x62 because after shooting one, I realized that the recoil was nothing to be scared of. As I looked more into things and realized that I might run afoul of regulations hunting buffalo with a 9.3, I decided to add the .458. My reasoning for bypassing the highly of practical calibers that you mentioned is that I didn't want to build a whole new rifle that mostly overlapped with the 9.3. If I find that nobody minds me shooting a buffalo with a 300 grain DGS from the 9.3, that's honestly my preference because I will have many more rounds through the 9.3 vs the .458. If the .458 is a fun novelty "elephant gun" that annihilates pumpkins and waits for the 9.3 back at camp, that's still a good outcome on my view.

I hope that helps some.
Dear friend,

You want to hunt buffalo, but You sissel around because of recoil?
May be You aren't the guy, go hunt buffalo?
In my understanding, hunting african game is one of the last really big adventures left in this whole world. You're blessed to have still those opprtunities! Don't spoil it!

When I'm around there it everytime reminds me of breathtaking lives and experiences coupled with the opportunities, those guys had these days, walking first on those tracks, hunting in pure nature and living on unspoiled space, which is in my taste dammned close to paradise.
Now You want to enter that sacred hunting grounds and Your only worry is about recoil?
My advise is, buy a 458 Winni with good features controlling recoil (like stock, weight, size,
without muzzle brake!!!!) go to the range, shoot just off hands, after that go to Africa, there into the thickest bush, hunt in there for the best Dagga Boy available or Your money can buy and enjoy the same, those guys did enjoy about 100 years ago. Even good recoil!!
This recoil will remind You, that You really hunt Big Game.
Besides, as an unexperienced Afrika Hunter, that 458 Winni will make sure, that the deal is fair and the buff hasen't to suffer big time!
 
I put together a two rifle set similar to what you are envisioning. Recoil is not a consideration, after 50 years of shooting heavy recoiling rifles, that mental block has been defeated. Recoil won't kill you.
My set was built on Stainless Ruger M77 Mark II rifles, with Bob Jury barrels and chambered for .375 WSM and .458 WM. The .375 WSM sports a 24" barrel and a 4-12 Leupold scope, while the .458 WM was built as a quick handling Carbine with 20" barrel and NECG open sights, plus a Leupold VX-R 2-7X33 optic. I have various loads worked up for both rifles, from 235 grain to 300 grain in the .375 WSM ans 350 grain to 500 grain in the .458 WM. My reasoning for a fast .375 caliber rifle was that it can reach out with a good payload on larger game, plus can play back up to the .458 WM on DG if required. I went with Stainless and B&C synthetic stocks, to better handle rough conditions and inclement weather. This set can handle anything the world of hunting offers.

View attachment 624851
Hell of a pair guns!
Same stock, same action, same trigger!!
Well done!
No surprises, no mistakes, no hassel!
I like Your style! (could be mine ;))
What kind of gun stock are those?
 
Hell of a pair guns!
Same stock, same action, same trigger!!
Well done!
No surprises, no mistakes, no hassel!
I like Your style! (could be mine ;))
What kind of gun stock are those?

The stocks are Bell & Carlson stocks for long action Ruger M77 Mark II and Hawkeye rifles... They are a nice product for a reasonable price... I wish they made them for short action rifles too... I have three or four stainless short action rifles that I would restock.
 
I don’t have a muzzle break on my 458 win mag, and I’ve put a lot of rounds through it, it’s a fairly light rifle (don’t know the actual weight) but it does boot me a bit with 560gn at 2400 fps, so I tend to stick to 4-500gn at 2200fps. I’ve also got some 300gns for smaller things. I’ve not been to Africa and probably never will, but everything I’ve shot with it here hasn’t been able to get up and complain, mostly because of the bloody great hole in it leaking copious amounts of liquid :LOL:
Gumpy
 
1723705047225.png

Interarms action, walther barrel, two cross bolts and a barrel recoil lug, Remington open sights, Parker Hale trigger with side safety, an old firearms international stock with internal wrist reinforcement
1723705385004.png
 
View attachment 626573
Interarms action, walther barrel, two cross bolts and a barrel recoil lug, Remington open sights, Parker Hale trigger with side safety, an old firearms international stock with internal wrist reinforcement
View attachment 626576

Nice rifle, but somebody did too much "cut back" in the forend tip... that is a branch grabber... twer it me, I'd square it up a smidgen.
 
View attachment 626573
Interarms action, walther barrel, two cross bolts and a barrel recoil lug, Remington open sights, Parker Hale trigger with side safety, an old firearms international stock with internal wrist reinforcement
View attachment 626576
Yeah, some real good features!
I like very much the long bolt!
Little chance to miss it! Also the heavy stock is a good thing to handle that puncher! Heia Safari!!
 
Further, a modification to the foreend would give you an excuse to add an ebony cap. When presented to "the boss" this can be justified as "practical". Win-win.
 
I’ve got a lump of ebony already in the workshop from another job, and as I do the work I’m fortunate that I don’t need to tell her……but she would probably notice and want to know where the "new" rifle came from……
Gumpy
 

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