300 H&H Craig Boddington "Kudu" advice

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Hello again all!

Well I took it to the outdoor range and I must be doing something wrong because I cannot get it to tame down to anything smaller than a 3 inch group. Maybe it's the ammo, maybe it needs to be free floated, I just don't know. Rest assured i'm not beaten yet, but it was a bit of a blow to see those results.
 

ZG47

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Dry firing practice is the first thing to look at. Firing position is the second issue, i.e. if you are shooting off a table: a Ruger No. 1 rifle should only be touching your hands, shoulder and cheek.

If you are still having difficulty, the standard solution is to have the end of the fore-end hanger drilled for and fitted with: a barrel tensioning screw.
 

CTDolan

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Hello again all!

Well I took it to the outdoor range and I must be doing something wrong because I cannot get it to tame down to anything smaller than a 3 inch group. Maybe it's the ammo, maybe it needs to be free floated, I just don't know. Rest assured i'm not beaten yet, but it was a bit of a blow to see those results.
Many No.1 rifles do well with a fully floated barrel but some want/need a little pressure at the tip of the forend. I'd try some other sources of ammo, first, though.
 

tarbe

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What shape are your groups?
 
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What shape are your groups?
I'll try to go shooting this week or weekend and give you a better picture, but overall the groupings resemble a circle, sort of everywhere. That, or they just track straight up in a line, like the jump is getting worse the more I shoot. I'm going to put a sling on it though and see if that helps me stabilize it a bit.
 

CTDolan

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I'll try to go shooting this week or weekend and give you a better picture, but overall the groupings resemble a circle, sort of everywhere. That, or they just track straight up in a line, like the jump is getting worse the more I shoot. I'm going to put a sling on it though and see if that helps me stabilize it a bit.
I’ll PM some information you’ll likely find helpful, tomorrow.
 

tarbe

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A tight sling on that barrel band might create more variation than it solves.

Are you resting the forend near the action, or out near the muzzle?

I have found resting near the action results in better groups (generally).
 

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Glad you decided to shoot the 300 H&H, I have never had any issues with my Kimber Caprivi 375 H&H with a barrel band. I have shot it many different ways, off sticks, free hand and from a lead sled and have never noticed any accuracy issues. I have noticed that certain ammo shoots better than others. I would try some different ammo before making any modifications to gun. For example Nosler Partitions shot better in my gun than does Hornaday ammo.
 

tarbe

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Just keep in mind that 5 pounds of up pressure at the tip of the forestock can dramatically change how a rifle shoots.

A tight sling on a barrel band can impart more force than that...and it won’t be identical from shot to shot no matter how careful you are.

One key aspect of precision shooting is reducing variables in the system.
 
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Just keep in mind that 5 pounds of up pressure at the tip of the forestock can dramatically change how a rifle shoots.

A tight sling on a barrel band can impart more force than that...and it won’t be identical from shot to shot no matter how careful you are.

One key aspect of precision shooting is reducing variables in the system.
It could be that I just need more practice, that's always a possibility (if that's what you meant by reducing variables :whistle::whistle:) and when I shoot it next I'll take some pictures of the target. I just know that with my 270 I can put all the wholes touching at 100, with the 375 I can almost do the same, but with the 300H&H I'm just not getting what I consider "good enough" for me.
 

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It could be that I just need more practice, that's always a possibility (if that's what you meant by reducing variables :whistle::whistle:) and when I shoot it next I'll take some pictures of the target. I just know that with my 270 I can put all the wholes touching at 100, with the 375 I can almost do the same, but with the 300H&H I'm just not getting what I consider "good enough" for me.
Sounds like the rifle needs some tuning or a load it likes.

I tried scanning what I want to send (an article regarding tuning the No. 1), but couldn’t figure out how. I’ll have someone help me on Thursday.
 
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Sounds like the rifle needs some tuning or a load it likes.

I tried scanning what I want to send (an article regarding tuning the No. 1), but couldn’t figure out how. I’ll have someone help me on Thursday.
Not a problem and I really appreciate the help!
 

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E-A,

I've shot a couple #1's pretty extensively and a Pre-64 M70 in 300 H&H. I love both of them dearly. The 300 H&H might just be my favorite PG Cartridge of all time. Nah, I take that back - it is. No question. Color me a light shade of jealous with your rifle!

There are few things I've learned about #1's. I hope this helps:

1. The Forearm and Hanger puts pressure on the barrel. If you are shooting off a rest that can be a problem. In fact, that was my #1 problem with the #1. (*Pun intended!) The key I found was to make sure the rifle on the rest was right at the frame. I had to constantly remember to re-set the rifle after each shot on the rest. Push it forward until the frame juuuuuust makes contact with the forward rest of the of the rifle. Make sure it is exactly that way each and every shot. That's going to be the most stable and solid place on the rifle and that is critical to consistent accuracy.

PS: If you shoot from sticks, please make sure you take the rifle position into consideration. It would be really easy to set the rifle on the forestock or the barrel!

2. The hammer fall is longer and takes more time. No, really. Inside that frame is an actual hammer, much like a lever gun. It has a longer lock time and that lock time means there's a shade of a microsecond to affect accuracy. Trigger follow through is critical. You have to make sure you keep the head down and follow through on the shot.

3. The trigger isn't the greatest. On my 7x57, it was a bit long and 6# creepy. I added an aftermarket trigger and it made a notable difference. (*to be clear, consistent rifle placement on the forward rest made the most difference).

My 7x57 went from 2.5" groups to .75" groups when I got my technique down. I added a Speedhammer, a Trigger and a Hicks Accurizer. They do help...but too much pressure on the Hicks can split the weld on the hanger/barrel. And, in the end, it's not really necessary. So, my advice is don't waste the money unless the technique plays out right.

Now, onto more fun stuff: 180gr. TSX at 2850+ is all you need. Yes, you can dial it up hotter...and please, do so if you want! But really, it's just not needed. TSX, Partition, E-Tip, Accubond...they all work.

And the .300 H&H is truly all you need.

PPS: before you ask, what happened to my old #1's? I just didn't get along with the weight and wanted a lighter option. Still...if there was ONE #1 that I would own...a .300 H&H would be it. They really are that nice.
 

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As a Ruger #1 fan I can say it is not and will not be collectible, go shoot it. They made many of them and what limited appreciation occurs is outpaced by inflation. 5 years from now it will an $1800 gun. Today it’s what, $1200-$1400? Are you going to let it sit sterile so you can sell it for a Small profit later?

First rule of collecting: collect best guns that are vintage. Never collect things that must be new in box. At least you can go hunt with a vintage Mauser while it appreciates, and any necessary servicing won’t destroy all value.

Yeah, I’m talking to you pre64 Winchester people with my jab. :)
 

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My Ruger #1 in 300 H&H does not like things like lead sleds. And if I have an accuracy issue it is stringing. Mine shoots 180 gr accubond factory well, and I have a 200gr partition handload that it likes
 
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Hello again all and I'm sorry it's taken so long to respond! I meant to take it to the range to try all these suggestions but then Africa called and I got busy booking my next trip and practicing with my .270 as I'll be using my PHs .270 in the same rifle (1970s BRNO, loved his so much I bought its brother) I was about to pick up the 300 when my gunsmith called to let me know my 404 Jeffrey was done so of course I had to go play with that! Now I'm done with that for a bit and I'll get the 300 out to the range and try your suggestions! A big thank you to @rovi ! I'm not sure what "at the frame" means but I'm guessing far back and not on the stock? I'll certainly give it a whirl!
 

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Right! The metal frame as opposed to the wood forearm. Slide the rifle forward until the metal body of the action is just touching the rest. That’s how I found my best position.

Good Luck!
 
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Hello again all! So I went to the range this weekend and had my lovely assistant/wife take some pictures of my posture and handling. I would LOVE some creative critiques because I was all over the place. If I can't master this rifle you may very well see it, some shells and some reloading equipment up here for sale! That is, of course, a last resort so please any help would be appreciated! Pictures attached. The target was at 100 yards, the wind wasn't enough to really worry about. Again, thank you for your input!

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tarbe

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EA

Are you shooting sub-moa (holes almost touching, as you said earlier) with this same technique and other rifles?

If so, you are a better man than I!

This sort of shooting position is testing your ability as much as it is testing the rifle.

If you have proven precise with other rifles and this method, then your rifle/ammo combo is not up to snuff.

Your shooting position (butt unsupported and rifle gripped at the fore, with hand resting on bag) is what I use to shoot a .470 Nitro double off the bench and it is less than the most precise way to aim!

But if I read you correctly, you can shoot well this way with other rifles....so there you go.

I would need to support the rifle fore and aft to feel like I am really testing the rifle/load.
 
 

 

 

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