Warne, Talley, or Leupold QD rings ?

From 2014-2016 I mounted 20-25 scopes a week on rifles. DNZ, Burris, Talley, Leupold and Warne all seem the same quality to me. I’ve encountered lemons from them all but they were incredibly few and far between.

There are numerous Leupold mount haters out there but I never had someone come back to me with an issue when Leupold was used. I didn’t mention Weaver above, and I’m specifically talking about the rings with screws on one side and a flange on the other, the originals.
They work and they work well but I HATE to use them because they are so hard to level.
Phoenix Phil said:
The only down side is when you're inexperienced with them it sometime feels like you need an extra set of hands when you're assembling them.
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Very true until you’ve done a whole bunch of them.
All of the above info is about QD and permanent rings. My opinion is they all work well. I use Warne almost exclusively on my rifles. I don’t remember why I started using them but have for a long time. If for some reason I couldn’t use Warne I’d use one of the other brands and not give it a second thought.
 
nksmfamjp said:
why not Leupold QRW?
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They are ok. Like I said i am a big fan of Leupold. I think they have such an ingenious design that I don’t understand it versus Warne/Talley. They claim very tight tolerances to get you back on zero. I just would like to hear from someone who has had some experience with them
I’d love for you to get some and let us know how you like them.
Philip
 
I have used Talley, Warne, Leupold QRW and the EAW. The first three are great, but the Talley’s have the edge IMO. They are as strong as any of them, great return to zero, and a trimmer design with a much better finish.

I have used the EAW system once. I received a defective mount that marred a Z8 scope. The big issue for me is that they don’t mount as low to the bore as Talley low rings so cheek weld is compromised.
 
As to the broken lever on the Leupold rings mentioned above, don’t forget they make two styles. IMO the old weaver style, QRW, is the appropriate ring for larger rifles. I doubt you’ll break a lever on them. The lighter weight design who’s is actually a quick release base is known for that problem.
 
WAB said:
I have used Talley, Warne, Leupold QRW and the EAW. The first three are great, but the Talley’s have the edge IMO. They are as strong as any of them, great return to zero, and a trimmer design with a much better finish.

I have used the EAW system once. I received a defective mount that marred a Z8 scope. The big issue for me is that they don’t mount as low to the bore as Talley low rings so cheek weld is compromised.
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Yes, I would agree with this. I have switched to all Talley. Great return to zero and easy to operate, especially on CZs. Wayne at AHR recommended them. I have two scopes for each rifle now and can quickly use my open sights as well.
 
nksmfamjp said:
why not Leupold QRW?
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Leupold has two types...the stud mount and the lever weaver style. The stud type is virtually impossible for me to turn the levers by hand. I had to carry a Leatherman in the field to use. The lever weaver style worked OK, but still not as well as the Warnes.
Those are all I have tried. I now have maybe 8-10 Warnes. Not one has failed to return to “0”. I have them on 375 H&Hes, 300 Win mags, 30-06, and 7mm-08. On the 375 H&Hes they get switched often from DG scopes to PG scopes for load testing. So far, no issues.
Unless you get a faulty mount, I’m sure most of these brands will serve you well.
Best of luck in choosing!
 
The Talley has a good design with a hexhead screw and a lever that can be placed so that the tight location is where you want it. That said, I don't care much for their customer service- I got a set so I got the standard star drive screws and the optional lever/hexhead screws. the thread on one of the lever screw has some sort of imperfection on it because it can only be turned into the base with quite a bit of push. the other three screws work fine. Contacting Talley they declined to take action because I would have damaged the base trying to turn the defective screw into it. So the lever screw went into a box and I just use the star drive screws and figure their permanent unless I carry a wrench.
 
Ray B said:
The Talley has a good design with a hexhead screw and a lever that can be placed so that the tight location is where you want it. That said, I don't care much for their customer service- I got a set so I got the standard star drive screws and the optional lever/hexhead screws. the thread on one of the lever screw has some sort of imperfection on it because it can only be turned into the base with quite a bit of push. the other three screws work fine. Contacting Talley they declined to take action because I would have damaged the base trying to turn the defective screw into it. So the lever screw went into a box and I just use the star drive screws and figure their permanent unless I carry a wrench.
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This is surprising. I have a few sets of Talley and have had good customer service. Talley is really pretty small and there aren’t that many people in the building. I think “customer service” is whoever picks up the phone.

They are located just off the interstate and I stop by to purchase things when I need them. They milled off a base for backup iron sight while I waited. My experience is that there is always someone who knows their stuff there but you may not be dealing with that person initially.

They gave me the wrong rings once and had the new ones at my door the next day.
 
All of the mentioned rings will work, Warne's are the only ones that don't leave marks on your scope when you take them off. If I didn't care about striping a scope I would say Talley's would be the best for looks and quality.
 
neckdeep said:
All of the mentioned rings will work, Warne's are the only ones that don't leave marks on your scope when you take them off.
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why’s that? I knew Warne’s were good stuff, but didn’t know that!

I always worry about Warne’s cause they can’t be lapped, but never had an issue.
 
I use them all But I'll I like the leupolds the best
 
Std Vel I too was surprised by the response from Talley as I had purchased other items previously that needed to be exchanged because I received incorrect information and the fellow that I talked with went out of his way to get the correct bases to me. Oh well, it is a small detail and I suspect that if I take the screw to a gunsmith he could chase the threads and get the correct alignment.
 
nksmfamjp said:
why’s that? I knew Warne’s were good stuff, but didn’t know that!

I always worry about Warne’s cause they can’t be lapped, but never had an issue.
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Just been my experience swapping around multiple scopes on different rifle's, Warne's are the easiest to use without having to lap, I love the look of the Talley's but they will leave some ring mark's once in a while.
 
MediumMadness said:
Hello friends.

I will be scoping a 375 Holland, and I'm going with QD rings. I'd like your opinions on the three brands that I've researched for QD rings: Warne, Talley, Leupold. I already own some Warne QD rings and I'm good with them, but I want to put the best ones on my new rifle, and I've never seen the others in the flesh, so I'd like to know what you guys think, and use, and why.

Thanks
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Two things you did not mention are the rifle and the scope you plan to put together.

This is important because some scopes are available with a rail mounted system.
That is to say there is a rail in the body of the scope making mounting and adjustment simple.
This is an example of a Swarovski rail scope and Blaser mount for a Blaser R8 Rifle.
Swarovski_SR_Rail_Mounts_-26.jpg


No this is not the cheapest option, but it is a reliable and easy to use system.
There are several brands who make mounts that go to rail scopes.
Some of them are Innomount and Contessa along with rifle companies who make their own.
Most of them are European as the rail scopes have only a small following in the US.

I recently installed a rail mounted scope on a Contessa mount for my Blaser R8.
The entire process took less than 10 minutes and the scope reticle is perfectly level.
Goes on and off is seconds and locks up like a bank vault.
I would recommend you at least take a look at a rail mounted scope.
 

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I hate to mention this, but over the years I have developed a liking for weaver mounts.:eek:
never had a problem with them.
when I bought my 2 sets of talleys, they did not have the option of low, only medium.
the std weavers with no levers to hang up on things can easily be undone or done up with a coin or knife blade.
the rings are wide and the scope will not slip.
all the claw mounts I have seen are extremely expensive, and cannot be mounted low as a hunting scope should be.
bruce.
 
I have used Weaver detachable mounts/rings but as noted previously, it is difficult to get the scope level. the problem is due to the turning of the scope as the ring screws are tightened. So the scope must be placed tilted out of level in anticipation of the amount that it will turn as the rings are tightened. It can lead to several trial & error attempts. Once it's done they seem to be alright, but when it's done I'm ready for a relaxer.
 
yes ray you need a good plumb line and a means of getting the rifle level and keeping it there.
but once it is done, all is good.
I had not fired one rifle for maybe 20 yrs, and it was still exactly the same zero with these mounts.
but then we get into the realm of stock stability and bedding.
bruce.
 
bruce moulds said:
yes ray you need a good plumb line and a means of getting the rifle level and keeping it there.
but once it is done, all is good.
I had not fired one rifle for maybe 20 yrs, and it was still exactly the same zero with these mounts.
but then we get into the realm of stock stability and bedding.
bruce.
Click to expand...

I’ve used several different systems and have found the Segway to be quick and easy. Every four years or so you have to replace the rubber band. If you are shooting at 1,000 yards I’m sure a more precise system would be needed but at normal hunting distances this certainly does the trick.


upload_2020-3-8_10-12-17.jpeg


The reverse side has a finer set of lines. As long as you have a flat surface on the top of the receiver or a short section of flat scope base open you can use this. I’ve used it on Leupold/Redfield, Talley, Weaver, Browning and DNZ mounts.

The bubble level is superfluous if your scope base is flat. As long as the reticle
is square to the action, you could be doing a tactical roll maneuver while dodging a buffalo and marveling at the reliability of your CRF while slamming home a fresh round and mounting the scope to the rifle using this system.
 
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