Rifle barrels that will withstand a barrel burner caliber - 6.5X68S

Gert,

The best reamers by far that I have personal used to date have been JGS. They are good people and the finish it leaves is the best to date of any brand.
 
Gert,

The best reamers by far that I have personal used to date have been JGS. They are good people and the finish it leaves is the best to date of any brand.
Inline, this is the first time I bought reamers from the USA, PTG company seems to be a major company with good quality products....
 
Members, I now has a Israeli Mauser in a 7.62 caliber I can use as an action for the 6.5 x 55 Swede as well...I need to make a choice today between the Carl Gustafson 1917 action and the Mauser 98 K Israeli action for this build. I did read up about the most suitable actions in the Mauser Shop manual..it pointed out to the fact that the Carl Gustafson action is suitable for small calibers and low pressure rifle builds...although as mentioned in a previous post the Carl Gustafson , Swedish action steel seems to be superior to the Mauser action from the same time /era..I really would like a member of Sweden on this forum collaborate on the qualities of the Carl Gustafson action...since I also read that the Sweden /Finish hunters used this rifle/action to shoot hot loads when hunting in the mountain ranges....
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the diameter seems like a very loose fit on a 0.264 bullet.
bruce.
Bruce, this reamer caliber, the 6.5 x 55 Swede is cut according the SAAMI specs...it would be interesting to whether other reamer companies use the same dimensions..I will email other companies and ask for a diagram of the 6.5 x 55 Swede caliber...
 
Here is a diagram of the cartridge according to Ammo guide :
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A description of the 6.5 x 55 Swede:(Ammo guide)

The 6.5 X 55 Swedish Mauser was the standard military cartridge for Sweden for over 50 years. The cartridge is "soft" loaded in the US as is the 7 X 57 Mauser. The Europeans load the cartridge much hotter and have used the cartridge for years as a primary hunting cartridge for medium sized game.

The cartridge is capable of excellent accuracy with sub MOA groups being very common. The standard twist of the Swedish Mauser rifles is 1 turn in 7.5 inches. The fast twist produces very good accuracy with bullets ranging from 85 grains to 160 grains. The 85 grain bullets and 100 grain bullets are excellent performers even with a jump between the bullet and the rifling.

A word about the Swedish Mauser rifles, P. O. Ackley considered the Swedes to be the very best of the 1895 Style Mauser actions to sportarize. They do make a very pretty little package when dressed up and polished out.

SPECIFICATIONS
Bullet Diameter:

6.71 mm
Max Overall Length:
80.01 mm
Max Avg Pressure:
51,000 psi
Rifling Twist:
1-in-20.3 cm
Rifling Lands:
4
Case Capacity (est):
3.73 cc
Primer Size:
5.33 mm

NOMINAL PERFORMANCE
Bullet Weight:

9.07 gm
Muzzle Velocity:
853 mps
Muzzle Energy:
 
From my perspective in regards to the choice:
I really would like to use the Carl Gustafson 1917 action since I like the look /features of the action a lot. But if I will not be possible to re-load to higher pressure loads I will not use it.
The Israeli Mauser action, 7.62 cal I know I can re-load it to higher pressure without any chance of failing...

I really would like members `s opinion in this regards..
 
the Israeli is a 98, and a superior design.
while the Swedish had good steel, it lacks the design of the 98.
the 98 is so well designed that does not have to rely on good steel, but what it has is good enough.
bruce.
 
if that reamer is saami min spec, you would not question it.
I am used to buying reamers for long range target rifles, that have much closer tolerance in that area.
one would suspect that saami would base their spec on Swedish military spec, and that works well as you say with bullets from 85 to 160 gn with a 7.5 twist.
the ones I have seen do this.
bruce.
 
reamers from loon lake, pt&g, and jgs all seem to work around here.
in part how they are driven is a big part of success.
some people report problems chambering 5r barrels, possibly due to an odd number of lands, unless special techniques are used.
bruce.
 
Thank you Bruce, yes, I think I will go with the Mauser 98 Israeli action..maybe using the Swedish action for a much smaller and light caliber in the future..(y)(y)
 
Good, members, some time for an update :
One member pointed out this is a Carl Gustaf action, and not a Carl Gustafson action, the action was named after a King of Sweden: King Carl Gustav...thank you Sir for rectifying this for me, it is much appreciated.
I decided since I already bought a set of re-loading dies and has a lot of 6.5 x 68 S brass , courtesy of member HWL ( thank you very much Georg) I am going to build this caliber on a chassis system after completing the 6.5 x 55 Swedish Mauser and 8x68S Mauser hunting rifles.....or do a 45-100 Winchester side by side shot gun action build using a Merkel 20 ga action as a donor action...one of these two projects will happen after completing the two hunting rifles builds...(y):A Banana:
 
Gert, the 6.5x55 is so good, so ubiquitous, and can be loaded so formidably in a sturdy action, why run to an obscure cartridge for a few FPS?

A few years ago they studied 6.5x55 versus the 6.5x284. What they found was that the extra velocity eroded accuracy and the optimal FPS was equally achievable in both rounds. This example may be relevant.
 
Gert, the 6.5x55 is so good, so ubiquitous, and can be loaded so formidably in a sturdy action, why run to an obscure cartridge for a few FPS?

A few years ago they studied 6.5x55 versus the 6.5x284. What they found was that the extra velocity eroded accuracy and the optimal FPS was equally achievable in both rounds. This example may be relevant.
Rookhawk, I concur , the reason I want to do it is: It will be a build on a chassis...I really want to try and mill out a chassis from solid aluminum , I believe a 6.5 x 68 or any other barrel burner will do great in a chassis build...a mini version of the .338 Lapua or .50 BMG rifles..I do not want to purchase a chassis , I want to manufacture/build/mill the chassis out of solid aluminium myself..it means I am going to melt and cast motor car blocks from aluminium myself...I already have a great melting drum..all I need is to put together a burner system working with old oil from a fish/chips shop or any cheap/free old oil ...the spin off is to cast a lot of aluminium rollers for knife blade sanding belt machines I want to build to sell...it is a win, win on both accounts...it is not the end product, it is the journey getting there...:A Banana::A Banana::A Banana::A Big Hello::A Big Hello:
 

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