Cheek Rests—which do you like best?

Thanks for you comments. My rifles are all purchased off the shelf. My shooting skills are gradually improving but I am not there yet. I believe my cheek weld could be helped with one of these devices. Thanks again
Did not mean that to come across as snooty - admittedly, a little disparaging of these strap-on wonders adorned with six to eight rounds of ammo - but not snooty. :) I have the same reaction watching someone frantically fiddling around with an adjustable stock on a tricked out clays gun while I’m holding serve with a 100- year-old SxS.

So to set the record straight, I think I have exactly one truly “bespoke” rifle or shotgun (stocked by the maker to my specific measurements). All the others are, one way or the other, “off the shelf” or originally bespoke for others.

LOP - length of pull - whether a shotgun or rifle is the most critical measurement for me to ensure instinctive alignment. That is easily achieved on most wood stocks. On a rifle, trigger pull is the second most critical factor. Perhaps because I shoot a lot of different rifles, Drop at heel and resulting “cheek weld” is a very distant third. Within reason - I simply adjust weld rather than worry about adjusting the rifle.

One of the most common issues that can make that difficult or impossible is scope positioning. As noted above by others, I see a lot of folks attempting to use rifles with scopes mounted too high - often compounding the problem with ridiculously large objective lenses. Also, many pre-WWII rifles were built with only open sights in mind, so their drop can be excessive by modern standards - particularly European rifles where the usual shooting stance was a bit more erect than here. Assuming it is properly set up, a typically created human being should be able to easily use any modern scoped rifle.

I assume from your posts that you are a relatively new shooter. The single biggest favor you can do yourself is range time - the second is to filter a lot of “advice” - to include from me! (n) Many people don’t really know a lot about shooting, but most have strong opinions. If getting a formal instructor is not an option, I would urge you to find a mentor - someone who clearly knows what they are doing and seems to be able to do it with the fewest gimmicks. Too often new shooters quickly find themselves chasing their tails forever trying the latest recommendation - when what they really need is range time (lots of range time) to turn breathing control, trigger release, and follow-through into unconscious, locked-in muscle memory. I wish you luck on your journey.
 
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Did not mean that to come across as snooty - admittedly, a little disparaging of these strap-on wonders adorned with six to eight rounds of ammo - but not snooty. :) I have the same reaction watching someone frantically fiddling around with an adjustable stock on a tricked out clays gun while I’m holding serve with a 100- year old SxS.

So to set the record straight, I think I have exactly one truly “bespoke” rifle or shotgun (stocked by the maker to my specific measurements). All the others are, one way or the other, “off the shelf” or originally bespoke for others.

LOP - length of pull - whether a shotgun or rifle is the most critical measurement for me to ensure instinctive alignment. That is easily achieved on most wood stocks. On a rifle, trigger pull is the second most critical factor. Perhaps because I shoot a lot of different rifles, Drop at heel and resulting “cheek weld” is a very distant third. Within reason - I simply adjust weld rather than worry about adjusting the rifle.

One of the most common issues that can make that difficult or impossible is scope positioning. As noted above by others, I see a lot of folks attempting to use rifles with scopes mounted too high - often compounding the problem with ridiculously large objective lenses. Also, many pre-WWII rifles were built with only open sights in mind, so their drop can be excessive by modern standards - particularly European rifles where the usual shooting stance was a bit more erect than here. Assuming it is properly set up, a typically created human being should be able to easily use any modern scoped rifle.

I assume from your posts that you are a relatively new shooter. The single biggest favor you can do yourself is range time - the second is to filter a lot of “advice” - to include from me! (n) Many people don’t really know a lot about shooting, but most have strong opinions. If getting a formal instructor is not an option, I would urge you to find a mentor - someone who clearly knows what they are doing and seem to be able to do it with the fewest gimmicks. Too often new shooters quickly find themselves chasing their tails forever trying the latest recommendation - when what they really need is range time (lots of range time) to turn breathing control, trigger release, and follow-through into unconscious, locked-in muscle memory. I wish you luck on your journey.
Thanks so much for taking the time to assist me. I genuinely appreciate it. Perhaps we can meet in Africa one day! Or, at a range in WI!
 
Gets her, I know exactly where you’re coming from. I’ve been trying to get a Tikka in 7mm-08 with a synthetic stock set up for my 12 year old granddaughter. I first shortened it to the correct pull. Then started working on her cheek weld. I discovered the lowest mounts and a stock on cheek pad got her set up well enough for her first hunt with it at Gizmo’s.
In doing this, I found many different cheek pieces from do-it-yourself duct tape to slip on pads.
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=rifle+cheek+rest&uac=true&userItemsPerPage=48
https://matthewsfabrication.com/product/adjustable-kydex-cheek-rest/
https://www.natchezss.com/kick-eez-cheek-eez-cheek-protector.html
I tried a Hornady strap on, but it constantly move with the recoil. Gave it to a friend to try.
Currently the Cheek-eez and lowest scope mount works OK, but as she grows, I may need to install the higher mounts and the fully adjustable Matthews. We shall see. Any way she so far loves hunting and is quickly becoming a good shooter. I’m a happy old man(y)!
Best of luck finding what works for you!
 

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So your issue is either the drops are wrong or the length is wrong. Shortening the length will change the comb drop if it’s not a straight comb rifle. Have you been fitted? Do you know what dimensions you need? Since it’s a rifle, did you buy the lowest mounts you can find? My 50mm scope fits in low mounts.

My wager is your optics are set up wrong, so now you’re compensating by setting up your stock wrong to match. (Being blunt but helpful)

Describe your ring height. Tell us how much more comb height you need. Let’s figure out the right way to solve the real problem.
 
Here is the one that makes the FTW/SAAM one:

https://specops.us/accu-pack-bolt-gun-rh-black.html

Not sure which one is cheaper the FTW/SAMM one with their logo, or the Spec Ops with logo.
Here is the one that makes the FTW/SAAM one:

https://specops.us/accu-pack-bolt-gun-rh-black.html

Not sure which one is cheaper the FTW/SAMM one with their logo, or the Spec Ops with logo.
Thanks for the help! I ordered the one that Phillip Glass and you recommended. I'll let you all know how it works. Thanks to everyone for the insight and comments. It is an amazing thing to have friends who educate me about the pros and cons of all of this. We live in amazing times! Brian
 
I would assume the right logo is important with these things?!? (y) :A Way To Go: Bound to come in a camo pattern as well.

I meant to say the Spec OPs without logo.

But of course, the right logo makes all the difference. Camo not so much.
 
be wary of too much cheek pressure on the stock.
you just need enough contact to align the sight, and more than that becomes a forced thing.
we read of cheek weld, and some assume that this means hard contact.
hard contact induces stress, which will by its nature be variable.
all shooting disciplines work best with less stress and force.
setting up the scope correctly as others have suggested is the starting point.
another issue with strapons is that they can move.
when this happens, point of impact will change due to forces in the shooting system changing.
most people get on quite well with the std ruger setup, and this relies on shooting the rifle enough to develop a rapport with it in the muscle memory as mentioned above.
dry firing is a great help here, as it is with trigger control as well.
bruce.
 
I use these guys on a couple of my rifles. https://www.bradleycheekrest.com/Bradley-Adjustable_c11.htm?page=all

For short range, say out to 200 yards, cheek weld isn't that big of a deal, at least not for me. Out past 250 yards, it starts to become a very big deal.

FTR, I have crazy high cheek bones. I use factory rings on my Tikka (1" scope and a 40mm objective), which is about as low as you can get. My pupil doesn't line up anywhere near the center of the scope without an assist from an after market riser.
 

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I have two of the same model from Triad Tactical.
https://triadtactical.com/triad-large-stock-pack/
While not used on my 375H&H, they have come in handy for fitting my wife to my 300WSM and the 22LR.
The cheek part is moleskin and very soft, making recoil a breeze.
 

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That really is funny! Thanks - been that kind of day.

Now we’re talking! I may not need a cheek rest but I could use a scotch carrier that happened to have a cheek rest accessory!
 
On a serious note, I have always insisted on using scopes that would mount with low mounts. I have also bought rifles with stocks that have a comb height that allows proper cheek weld. Accurate field shooting is much more about fit, technique and trigger control than the size of group you can shoot off a bench. I find a Winchester Model 70 with low rings fits me about as well as any stock rifle. I find the Ruger far too low in the comb. As to scopes, when I was on a tighter budget I almost exclusively used a Leupold VX-3 2.5-8x with a 36 mm objective lens. This scope will mount in low rings on a M70 and is extremely fast on target at the lower power settings. Unless you are somewhat unusual, you will not need at cheek rest with this setup.

And while we’re at it, will someone please explain to me why we seem to be migrating to scopes with monstrous lens and tubes the size of car axles? How in the world are you supposed to shoot with a scope mounted 3” above the centerline of your barrel???
 
Cuz their tacticool. A lot of those tacticool rifles have adjustable risers.

I only have one such scope, and it's mounted on a rifle whose purpose is not hunting.
 
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I've used a pad riser once in my "career". It was because my 7 year old kids custom rifle had to be cut down so much, and their faces were so small, that they were 1.5" low for a straight tube scope in ultra-low rings. (as low as possible) That was the one in a million scenario where I needed a cheek riser.

99.999% of the time, a cheek riser is not the solution at all, its the optics and the scope rings. Get the optics the proper low position and then the stock works correctly. If your optics and your iron sights don't work correctly, then the optics are set up wrong. If you need a cheek riser to reach up to your optic, your optics are set up wrong. If all of that is wrong, it means you have a bastardized custom stock that was built really wrong...in which case get a new stock, probably for not much more than a lace-on pad that is what the young people call "fugly". :)
 
Kydex, look them up. Simple and fairly easy and cheap.
 
I have tried Beartooth--a bit bulky, and cumbersome. Having been using "God a Grip" most recently which works well for me.
 
@WAB

Well. Whose purpose is not hunting the sort of animals for which this forum exists to discuss.
 
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