Zeiss Optics

I have a Conquest 3-9x40 ready to be sent in for repair. Checked the .338 win mag and it was off and can't get sited in. Both elevation and windage turrets are not working
Replaced the the 338 with a .340 and put a Leupold on it
 
I’m using various Zeiss telescopes since almost 45 years. So far there was never ever a problem. For years I have had a Heym SR 20 in .375 H & H with a Zeiss 1,5-6x42 on. Perfect!

All my Zeiss telescopes, except one, were made in Germany, they are obviously better than the ones made in the US.
 
Although it doesn't change the fact that they should look after you, I am curious about whether your scope was one of the ones made in Germany or made in the US (should be marked on it) ?
 
Although it doesn't change the fact that they should look after you.

The service of Zeiss Wetzlar/Germany is outstanding. Twice I had purchased second hand scopes. Zeiss checked, cleaned and sealed one for a little fee. For the other ones service I had to pay zero. I even received a free lens cover. There is only one of my rifles without a Zeiss telescope on. For a single shot rifle I wanted a 4x32 or 4x36. Zeiss doesn’t offer it so I bought a Schmidt & Bender 4x36.
 
I’ve used Zeiss in my profession daily, non hunting related, for about 30 years and have had no issues. The unavoidable wear and tear that comes with heavy daily use have been handled with great customer service in Europe and in the US.
At the moment I’m using Zeiss Victory 8x54 onboard and nothing that I have handled have been comparable.

For my hunting interest I’ve used Zeiss both in their scope and binoculars for the last 8 years or so and have had no issues with their scopes. (Terra, Duralyt and Conquest).
With the Binocular Conquest there is a known fault, or perhaps weakness, with their eye cups. They break easier than what can be expected from one of the “Big 3”. I have had to replace them basically after each season after medium use. They get stuck in one of the levels of clicks which makes it uncomfortable.
Zeiss South Africa has replaced them without cost including courier to my address.
I’ve also got a Zeiss Victory 8x20 that have seen minimal use, but so far no issues there.
 
Although it doesn't change the fact that they should look after you, I am curious about whether your scope was one of the ones made in Germany or made in the US (should be marked on it) ?

It’s German made.
 
It’s German made.

Which Diavari is it? Can you show some images? How old is it? Serial no? I could contact Zeiss on your behalf. Just need to know all faults it has.
 
I've seen most every premium brand scope made come back in returns for a manufacturing failure at some point. It doesnt matter if its swaro, zeiss, NF, Leica....down to Nikon. Defects happen and it's up to the CS to make it right for you.

Get another RA to have the scope (hopefully) repaired or replaced. You are due that.
 
I have a Conquest 3-9x40 ready to be sent in for repair. Checked the .338 win mag and it was off and can't get sited in. Both elevation and windage turrets are not working
Replaced the the 338 with a .340 and put a Leupold on it

When you say the turrets aren't working, do you mean when the scope is on the rifle, they are not moving the crosshairs? If so, do they move with the scope out of the rings? Too tight rings can cause this problem. I recently saw it on a low end Vortex.
 
My go to hunting scopes but don't try this at home: :p:D OT, NO fore end stop on the Caldwell rest.

 
When you say the turrets aren't working, do you mean when the scope is on the rifle, they are not moving the crosshairs? If so, do they move with the scope out of the rings? Too tight rings can cause this problem. I recently saw it on a low end Vortex.

I checked the scope after removing it from the rifle. There is no adjusting the crosshairs, for elevation or windage. The scope sighted in fine when it was installed on the rifle, and stayed sighted in for several years. Than it was off and couldn't adjust it. I like the scope very clear and like the rapid 600 reticle. When I get it back I will put it on something.
I think you can have an issue with any make or model.
 
Which Diavari is it? Can you show some images? How old is it? Serial no? I could contact Zeiss on your behalf. Just need to know all faults it has.

IMG_4058.JPG
IMG_4057.JPG
 
Made in "WEST" Germany. It's an older scope, at least 29 years old. I see ring marks. Are you tightening the ring screws to the proper torque? I've see scopes that looked like the owner used a half inch breaker bar to tighten the cap screws with the usual results, rings that dig in to the tube and locked erector springs.
 
Made in "WEST" Germany. It's an older scope, at least 29 years old. I see ring marks. Are you tightening the ring screws to the proper torque? I've see scopes that looked like the owner used a half inch breaker bar to tighten the cap screws with the usual results, rings that dig in to the tube and locked erector springs.

Here’s the fun part. I have been a professional Gunsmith for over 35 years. I’m sure the scope was properly mounted.
 
It sucks that it failed while abroad, it sucks it failed a second time. I have a Zeiss Diavari 2.5-10x50. It’s great. I’m guessing yours is a Lemon and that sucks too. My mate has an older Diavari and it sill gets regular use.
I’d like a lighter scope but in reality it’s within 100g of anything that would compare with it
If you are going down the line of 2 scopes. You can possibly get 2 Leupolds of suitable mid range models for what you might pay for the equivalent model of that Diavari.
A mate her in Oz said Leupold have some really good scopes under a grand (Hunting scopes) If he was paying more than that he would consider others.
 
It sucks that it failed while abroad, it sucks it failed a second time. I have a Zeiss Diavari 2.5-10x50. It’s great. I’m guessing yours is a Lemon and that sucks too. My mate has an older Diavari and it sill gets regular use.
I’d like a lighter scope but in reality it’s within 100g of anything that would compare with it
If you are going down the line of 2 scopes. You can possibly get 2 Leupolds of suitable mid range models for what you might pay for the equivalent model of that Diavari.
A mate her in Oz said Leupold have some really good scopes under a grand (Hunting scopes) If he was paying more than that he would consider others.

My plan for next years Namibia Safari is 2 Leupolds mounted in Leupold rings and the tools to swap them out if needed.
 
Without opening the safes (intentional plural) I would guestimate that I likely have well over half a dozen Zeiss scopes and I have never had any issue with any Zeiss product (I also own a couple pairs of Zeiss binoculars as well) in 30 years of hunting. These are extremely well engineered and assembled products, especially the German ones, and especially those made in Germany before re-unification, i.e. the ones marked West Germany. Yes "modern" glass is better, but in many cases it takes laboratory equipment to measure the difference...

Reading this post, a few thoughts come to mind...

1) Your original post says: "I remounted it to my .375, fired a few shots to rezero and put it away. That fall I got it out to get ready for a bear hunt and the scope was doing the exact same thing as before I sent it off." This would lead someone to think that you re-mounted the scope and re-zeroed it without any issue, and that somehow during that period in the safe something mysteriously happened. One thing I can think of, and it happened to me with two Swarovski scopes, would be the lubricant of the zoom ring hardening enough to prevent rotation after years of storage. On these Swarovski, I managed to turn the zoom ring with great effort a few times, and within minutes the issue was solved. The friction likely heated up and softened the hardened grease. I later discovered that I was the guilty party when I wiped the scopes with the same silicon cloth I used on the rifles, and its oils seeped into and reacted with the zoom ring internal lubricant. My bad...

2) Looking at your pictures, I can think of something much more likely. On this model of Zeiss scope the zoom ring actually forms the bell of the rear ocular and nothing prevents it from contacting the rear base ring. If the scope slides forward under recoil (you mention a .375), the zoom ring can actually become locked in place by contacting the rear base ring. I have actually seen this on a friend's similar scope. In my friend's case, the solution was as simple as loosening the rings, moving the scope back 1/4" to clear the rear base ring, de-grease the rings and tighten the screws at 30 inch/lbs with a torque wrench (many scopes rings & bases screws are not torqued at the proper value, including some mounted by professional gunsmiths). That fixed the issue for good.

3) A scope that is sliding forward in its rings will not hold zero. The sliding will be imperceptible to the human eye, but enough to move the point of impact of few inches at a time, and the shooter will likely not realize it until, with a scope like yours, the rear base ring locks the zoom ring in position; or with other scope designs, the shooter may never notice it at all and the scope will come to rest with the rear ocular bell shoulder contacting the rear base ring, and all of a sudden the shifting zero problem will mysteriously disappear - I have seen that with my own .416 Rigby with a Schmidt & Bender in Alaska Arms rings, despite proper torquing. That is especially true with older, heavier scopes like yours, and my S&B 1 1/4-4 x 20 with 30 mm tube.

In summary, I have seen #1 explaining a locked zoom ring; and #2 & 3 explaining both a shifting zero and a locked zoom ring. Is this your case? Only you can say...

As to blaming Zeiss for voiding a Return Authorization after a year without actual return ... it seems we all agree on this one...

PS: As to back up, that is why I take two scoped rifles to Africa, not just two scopes. Have you ever seen base screws break or a stock split?
 
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Only ever had one problem with a Zeiss--and they went way overboard helping me to the max!
 
Without opening the safes (intentional plural) I would guestimate that I likely have well over half a dozen Zeiss scopes and I have never had any issue with any Zeiss product (I also own a couple pairs of Zeiss binoculars as well) in 30 years of hunting. These are extremely well engineered and assembled products, especially the German ones, and especially those made in Germany before re-unification, i.e. the ones marked West Germany. Yes "modern" glass is better, but in many cases it takes laboratory equipment to measure the difference...

Reading this post, a few thoughts come to mind...

1) Your original post says: "I remounted it to my .375, fired a few shots to rezero and put it away. That fall I got it out to get ready for a bear hunt and the scope was doing the exact same thing as before I sent it off." This would lead someone to think that you re-mounted the scope and re-zeroed it without any issue, and that somehow during that period in the safe something mysteriously happened. One thing I can think of, and it happened to me with two Swarovski scopes, would be the lubricant of the zoom ring hardening enough to prevent rotation after years of storage. On these Swarovski, I managed to turn the zoom ring with great effort a few times, and within minutes the issue was solved. The friction likely heated up and softened the hardened grease. I later discovered that I was the guilty party when I wiped the scopes with the same silicon cloth I used on the rifles, and its oils seeped into and reacted with the zoom ring internal lubricant. My bad...

2) Looking at your pictures, I can think of something much more likely. On this model of Zeiss scope the zoom ring actually forms the bell of the rear ocular and nothing prevents it from contacting the rear base ring. If the scope slides forward under recoil (you mention a .375), the zoom ring can actually become locked in place by contacting the rear base ring. I have actually seen this on a friend's similar scope. In my friend's case, the solution was as simple as loosening the rings, moving the scope back 1/4" to clear the rear base ring, de-grease the rings and tighten the screws at 30 inch/lbs with a torque wrench (many scopes rings & bases screws are not torqued at the proper value, including some mounted by professional gunsmiths). That fixed the issue for good.

3) A scope that is sliding forward in its rings will not hold zero. The sliding will be imperceptible to the human eye, but enough to move the point of impact of few inches at a time, and the shooter will likely not realize it until, with a scope like yours, the rear base ring locks the zoom ring in position; or with other scope designs, the shooter may never notice it at all and the scope will come to rest with the rear ocular bell shoulder contacting the rear base ring, and all of a sudden the shifting zero problem will mysteriously disappear - I have seen that with my own .416 Rigby with a Schmidt & Bender in Alaska Arms rings, despite proper torquing. That is especially true with older, heavier scopes like yours, and my S&B 1 1/4-4 x 20 with 30 mm tube.

In summary, I have seen #1 explaining a locked zoom ring; and #2 & 3 explaining both a shifting zero and a locked zoom ring. Is this your case? Only you can say...

As to blaming Zeiss for voiding a Return Authorization after a year without actual return ... it seems we all agree on this one...

PS: As to back up, that is why I take two scoped rifles to Africa, not just two scopes. Have you ever seen base screws break or a stock split?

Thank you for your well thought out and deliberate analysis. The scope still won’t shift off 9 power after being removed from the rings. I do realize it’s my fault for not returning the scope in a timely manner. It’s just I have lost all faith in it and believe it or not it’s useless to me and I don’t have a problem just throwing it away. I have thought about getting it repaired and then selling it but I feel that would be dishonest. It’s nice and clear. Lighter than binoculars. Maybe a spotting scope in my day pack would be a suitable use for it.
 
Having to send it back twice, I'd be inclined to talk to someone up higher on the ladder and see if I could get a discounted or replacement deal on a newer model.
 

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