Charlie, don't make it more difficult then it needs to be. Being cautious whether you're new or experienced at handloading is wise, but don't fear it. A little common sense goes a long way. If you've ever pulled the jack out of your trunk, raised the car, removed the wheel with a flat tire, replaced with your spare and made it home safely, you can do this.
The steps really boil down to the following:
1. Prepare your brass : Size in the sizing die. Clean the primer pocket with a brush. Measure the length and trim if necessary. Start out with new brass and it will take a few firings before this is necessary and you also won't have to clean the primer pocket the first time. Debur and chamfer the neck with this slick little tool that you'll see. Setting up the sizing die is the trick at this step. However if you read the instructions closely with your die set, it'll make sense.
2. Prime the brass: A very simple step. I as well as
@Bullthrower338 and I think also
@tarbe have found the Lyman priming tool to be the easiest to use. If you can manage to load the primer holding tray of the tool with the primers all facing the right direction, you've got this step. It really is quite easy.
3. Drop some powder, weigh it to ensure it's what you want and fill an empty but primed case. This is arguably the most important step in regards to safety. But it's really not difficult. The key is to not be in a hurry and also to not be disturbed. At this step, if the kids or wife are in the house and come into the garage, I ask them to not disturb me. Its not to be rude, but interruptions at this step are not good.
4. Seat the bullet. I personally do not powder fill a bunch of cases and then perform this step. Instead as I finish step 3 on a case, I then immediately seat a bullet in that now charged case. The "difficult" part of this step is setting up your die so that you seat the bullet to give you the proper COAL (cartridge overall length). You want to start long and work your way downward to obtain the proper setting. Going the other direction means you've seated too short and you have to pull the bullet, that's a pain in the butt.
So steps 3 and 4 go together. As mentioned step 3 is the most important in my opinion in regards to safety. But step 4 is also important. If you're excessively short, it means the load is that much more compressed and you'll have higher pressure.
I've glossed over a number of details in an effort to just describe the big picture. But that's really all there is to it. As you mentioned in your post, being shown how this is done is a great idea. I would guess
@Shootist43 would be happy to do that. I would personally recommend picking up a Nosler reloading manual, or any of the other manuals out there that step you through the process. Read it, let that sit in your mind for a day or two, then read it again a time or two more. After that watch someone else do it and it'll all come together.
I'd also recommend you start out with just one caliber, and of the ones listed, I'd go with the .300 Win Mag. Simply because it's likely the cheapest for components and easiest on your shoulder at the range. Start with a starting load and work your way up from there and watch the magic happen as groupings improve.
Once you get into it, you'll run into something that confounds you. Whether it be a stuck case in a die or needing to pull a bullet, it'll happen. There's plenty of hand loaders here on AH who've probably seen the issue. So stop and make a post to get some help.
Oh, one last suggestion. I think you're eyes are as old if not older than mine. A digital scale with their nice big numbers is so much easier to work with than a balance beam scale, especially if the light isn't all that great like in my garage.
