What To Look For In Buying Binoculars

Poz said:

I am currently looking at the SLCs and wondering whether the viper HDs would be as good. Unfortunately I'm nowhere that I cab try a pair of viper 10x42s I was trying 10x42s SLCs this afternoon as well as Meopta 10x42s and swarovski CL 10x30, the CL were clear but nothing on the SLC, the Meopta were right there with the SLC but substantially heavier and only 450 dollars cheaper @ 1650. If I could try the vipers out it would satisfy my curiosity before I buy something.

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I have MeOpta 10x42..Verygood ,no gripes but at 70 I found them a little heavy..I went to Cabela's n tried SLC,Me Op 8x32 then for fun I tried the Vipers..Boy was I surprised and walked out with the Vipers for $489....Pretty darn good ! The ones I got are marked Japan in tiny letters..

One more vote for the Swarovski 10x42 EL with "Swarovision" lense coating.
These are worth the high price, even if you have to make payments on them, as you would for a motor bike or camp trailer, etc.

If you buy the best, you only cry once.
If you buy something less, you cry each time you use it.

I spent time comparing a lot of binoculars. I found Swarovski seemed to have the clearest glass. But I had no desire to spend over $1K! I ended up buying a pair of Vortex Vipers in 10 x 50 after comparing with Zeiss and Leicas. I have used them in glassing aoudad and tahr with no regrets. The diamondbacks I have seen lack crispness. In scopes they are blurrier than Leupold VX 2. However they seem to be widely variable in quality. I bought one Diamondback on Amazon that appeared smdugy around the periphery. Sent it back to Vortex for a grudging replacement and got one that was marginally better. So, I have a couple of Diamondbacks sitting on the shelf. The first Diamondback I bought is fairly good and has not been replaced. I have two fine Vipers on long distance rifles. Otherwise, Leupold VX 3's are usually my choice.

When I went to Africa, they told me to leave the big binocs at home so I took some West Marine 8x32. After my son borrowed them for a field ornithology course, they were beginning to fall apart. After looking around, I was surprised to find Bass Pro Occulus was very crisp. I had enough coupons, etc. to cut the price in half, so I bought them. They are serving me well in bird watching.

Well, I had the opportunity to look through Steiner's, zeiss conquest, Meopta, Kahles and decided that with all of them I would be likely to want to upgrade at some point so I went with the swarovski SLC straight away, I figured I'd happier right from the start

Good choice. Really can't go wrong with one of the big three. Swarovski, Leica or Zeiss.

This is a fun thread.....................but you should be aware that most of it is anecdotal data........................."Uncle Charlie bought a pair of "Synthetic Eyeballs 16 Power" and killed a great big buck....................."

There is no "best binocular" There is only the best pair for YOU, and what you will do with them. A 35 year old sitting and rested, looking all day for Javelina needs a vastly different glass than a fatigued, dehydrated 65 year old at 10000 feet looking for a muley. Old guys, guys with glasses, presbyopic, and or with a tremor need low power, easy to carry and easy to grip binocs.

And they are worthless unless they are durable. And testing them in the store, when rested and hydrated, and when you havent dropped them and layed on them fifty times in the last few days has limited value. And buying the best pair in the world, at a price that keeps you from being able to afford a hunting trip, is a mistake as well.

Old guys need low power, young bucks may use more magnification. Durability cant be measured in the store. Look up on the web the brands that get sent back for repair the most. Look at your reflection in the objective (wrong) end of the binoc...........that is the light that doesnt go thru to your eye.................can you see yourself good enough to shave? Is the circle on the wall when held at arm's length round?

If you want to cut to the chase, and you're a Gomer..................buy Swarovski 8X32 Companions...........they will work everywhere............local optical shops tell me they have never sent one back..........unless it was ran over.......................good luck......................Flatwater Bill

IMO. Swarovski and Leica are shoulders above everything else. With Swarovski being my choice. The EL are are my choice.

There are several "great brands" out there to chose from. One critical issue that many people don't pay attention to is the weight of the product. When you compare the glass, resolution and focus, it's often hard to tell the difference from one brand to the next. It doesn't hit home until you've purchased the product and you're spending a day afield that the issue of weight becomes a real factor. When you're carrying a 12 pound pack and a seven pound rifle up a mountainside when the weight of the binoculars around your neck becomes bothersome. As it is, we carry too many extra options when we're afield, every ounce counts when you're packing everything into base camp.

When choosing binoculars, I suggest you list weight as one of your deciding factors.

ArmyGrunt said:

I was just skimming a website at the bino selection. A great many brands, various numbers associated with each maker's models.

What should i look for in buying this tool? I know some brands, though demanding a higher price, provide much better quality.

Is Zeiss really that much better than some others? Leica? Nikon?
It could be unsaid that the cheaper priced stuff won't provide such good clarity.

How much money should one consider spending for quality that will stand the test of time?

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I like Swarovski but ..... brace yourself for the price.

Here are some features I consider:

- Minimum twilight factor of 17 (old school but useful)
- 8x maximum power for best offhand stability
- Weight and size
- Roof prism over porro prism

The quality of the optic is also very important. Not only does it need to be crisp and clear, but extremely durable.

Apart from the above, wearing a comfortable bino harness can definitely come in handy.

Hunteez said:

Here are some features I consider:

- Minimum twilight factor of 17 (old school but useful)
- 8x maximum power for best offhand stability
- Weight and size
- Roof prism over porro prism

The quality of the optic is also very important. Not only does it need to be crisp and clear, but extremely durable.

Apart from the above, wearing a comfortable bino harness can definitely come in handy.

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8 power at a twilight factor of 17 means 8x36.

I only use Nikon. Binoculars, scopes and range finders. Never had problems with Nikon. Quality is excellent and they are very well priced.

I have to say I find the arguments made for and against any type of hunting gear to be very similar, regardless of what type of gear we're talking about.

The best of anything is typically the most expensive. Not always, but as a general rule, you can count on that. In terms of binos, that means that Swarovski, Leica and Zeiss are the most expensive. They are the best, so they get to charge the most, and they do.

But that shouldn't be the end of the discussion for binoculars, or for any other type of gear. Identifying the best of anything is typically pretty simple. Identifying the best value in anything is much harder.

By that I mean that while a $2000 pair of binos will almost always be 'better' than a $1000 pair, will they be twice as good? Will they be 4 times as good as a $500 pair? While it's possible that the answer is yes, I'd suggest that most likely the answer is no. The nature of the beast is such that you pay ever increasing increments for ever smaller improvements.

If you have the means, and you don't mind paying the price, by all means, go ahead and buy the best. Otherwise, you have a tougher decision to make.

Typically, and I believe in binos as well, there will be a lower range where it can be clearly said "you get what you pay for", and not in a good way. Eliminate those; they are no bargain. To quote a tracker I heard in Ethiopia once "nice price buy twice."

You're now left with a range of binoculars between those at the bottom and those at the top. This is where most of the good brands are, and where most people will generally be satisfied with their purchase. For binos, this range is generally from a few hundred dollars to less than a thousand. Within that range, you will find many binos that will do almost everything the best will do, but perhaps not quite as well. So go to an outdoor store, tell them you want to look at hunting binos, tell them what you want to spend, and test a bunch. I believe you'll find that all are pretty close in terms of viewing, but differ in terms of comfort, fit and finish. Buy what feels natural in your hands, and what allows you to get a good picture the quickest. I believe that any binos in this price range will last as long as the best, which is to say, they should outlast you.

I believe that if you do this, you will have the best value binoculars, which are those that do everything you really need them to do, at a price far below what you would pay for the best.

When I was much younger, and I had many more claims on my dollars than I do now, I used Leupold scopes. Now that things have changed a bit, I use Swarovski. Are the Swarovskis better? Sure they are. Are Swarovskis so much better that you'll be a better hunter? No. Same with binos.

ArmyGrunt said:

I was just skimming a website at the bino selection. A great many brands, various numbers associated with each maker's models.

What should i look for in buying this tool? I know some brands, though demanding a higher price, provide much better quality.

Is Zeiss really that much better than some others? Leica? Nikon?
It could be unsaid that the cheaper priced stuff won't provide such good clarity.

How much money should one consider spending for quality that will stand the test of time?

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ArmyGrunt, I'm no expert but I would say get a good pair (cheap one suck and are a waste of momey imo) and I would look hard at Minox, a ton of binocular for the money.

I picked up a set of Swarovski 8x30 companions the other day. I've played with them every evening and this morning just as daylight was starting. Dam fine compact bino! I have never met a set of compacts that were worth owning until these and I've wasted a fair amount trying to find a pair that were at least good. They are very reasonably priced and will be perfect for bow hunting. Have a look at these little guys.

ArmyGrunt said:

I was just skimming a website at the bino selection. A great many brands, various numbers associated with each maker's models.

What should i look for in buying this tool? I know some brands, though demanding a higher price, provide much better quality.

Is Zeiss really that much better than some others? Leica? Nikon?
It could be unsaid that the cheaper priced stuff won't provide such good clarity.

How much money should one consider spending for quality that will stand the test of time?

Click to expand...

I've outfitted many people with binoculars over the years, the main thing i can tell you is trust yourself. everyone has a favorite brand, preferences to style etc. to start, I would determine exactly what you need; for instance, i sell a lot of 10x42 binoculars, they tend to be the jack of all trade, but i myself am partial to 8x30 or 32mm lately as you get a smaller, lighter and more compact package, and decent performance. when i attend long range shooting competitions, i bring a spotting scope, and some 15x56 binoculars, easy to sit behind those 15x56 binoculars all day. I generally try to pick a couple of options and pick my favorite. you might even want to try a binocular rangefinder combo if you shooting distance to consolidate equipment.

put your hands on some and try to take them outside the store and glass at distance, preferably on a day with poor lighting, over cast or at the end of the day is perfect. if you are testing something higher power for glassing at distance, go when it's a bit brighter and more sunny so you can see how the perform with mirage over longer distances. look at objects in the edge of your field of view in the binoculars to determine edge to edge clarity in the glass. while testing the optical clarity and quality against poor lighting, play with the focus wheel, try the dioptic adjustment, does the binocular fit your face (interpupillary distance) are the eye cups comfortable to you? if you wear glasses, are you going to use them with or without your glasses and will they work with your glasses.

Once you figure out what you want, pick a budget, and don't be afraid to go a little above it, you won't be disappointed if you spend a little more to get a better quality optic. the only time i've had someone claim this is when a man's wife found out how much he spent on a Z5, you could hear his wife demanding he send the scope back in the back ground lol.

Once you've found your budget and binocular, check into necessary accessories; field cleaning kit, binocular harness, tripod adapter for larger and more powerful binoculars are some that come to mind.

Mostly covered in previous replies..I personally prefer the 10x binds for glossing.
I will be investing shortly in a combo bino/ range finder unit to make things easier and quicker.

Hi Bruce. While I like the idea of the Rangefinding Binoculars the reality for me that the weight of them was just too much for me to want to carry them all day.

Personally, I've found that any game animals far enough away to cause me to pull out my RF are also far enough away that I haven't spooked the too much yet either. So the time savings I'd somewhat Los the to me.

Either way, please post up and let us know what choose!

Bruce said:

Mostly covered in previous replies..I personally prefer the 10x binds for glossing.
I will be investing shortly in a combo bino/ range finder unit to make things easier and quicker.

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I'm testing the vortex fury binoculars now. i've tested the leica and swarovski rf binoculars in the past, always a good idea to combine equipment, less to carry and you don't have to transition to rf from binos and vice versa. depending on how far your ranging some of the stand alone rf units can range quite a bit farther. test both and see what suits your style. if you have any questions, i'm happy to answer them.