.375 plains game bullet weight?

Longwalker said:

I have had good results on our local Canadian game with the 260 grain Nosler partition at 2700 fps. Elk & Bear.

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reviving an old thread to ask for more info if you have it...

Cabelas had Nosler factory 260gr partition ammo on sale last week for $55 a box.. I bought all that they had on the shelf (4x boxes)...

Ive never shot partitions in any caliber or rifle (I'm typically a barnes or federal guy).. I understand they have a generally good reputation though.. and at that price (plus an additional 5% discount ) I couldn't resist.. and thought it would be worth a try..

K-man said:

How about pictures of a 300 grn .375 tsx? Just the ones that didn't pass through. One traveled the length of an oryx taking out bones, etc.

View attachment 55291

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Hi K-man,

From left to right, your first two bullets do look like typical Barnes expanding / mono-metal design but, your third bullet looks like a dreaded "cup & core" design?
(The base on this one also appears to be about .45 caliber) ?

Your very next post even mentions possible jacket-core separation?

Not trying to gnat-buzz you, just asking for clarification, as hunting rifle ballistics, to include scrutinizing recovered projectiles is my favorite pass-time / hobby.

Cheers,
Velo Dog.

PS:
I do not disparage lead core bullets.
When used within their intended velocity range, and caliber/bullet weight, suited to the animal hunted, in my personal experiences, they have proved extremely effective.
Nor am I against mono-metal expanding bullets, as the makers seem to be improving them regularly and people who use them, lately are reporting very fine results.

mdwest said:

reviving an old thread to ask for more info if you have it...

Cabelas had Nosler factory 260gr partition ammo on sale last week for $55 a box.. I bought all that they had on the shelf (4x boxes)...

Ive never shot partitions in any caliber or rifle (I'm typically a barnes or federal guy).. I understand they have a generally good reputation though.. and at that price (plus an additional 5% discount ) I couldn't resist.. and thought it would be worth a try..

Click to expand...

If accurate in your rifle and intended for PG, have at it! In my book the North Fork Bonded Cores and A-Frames represent and improvement over the Nosler Partition and enough so that I wouldn't use NPs on DG. But for PG, I wouldn't hesitate at all. The Partition is still a great bullet in my opinion.

Iv'e messed around with loads on 375 ranging from 200 to 300g and while I got some amazing Fps with light loads I was never satisfied with accuracy so I went back to 300g loads, I still get close to 2600fps and my accuracy has returned to what is acceptable to me

Velo Dog said:

Hi K-man,

From left to right, your first two bullets do look like typical Barnes expanding / mono-metal design but, your third bullet looks like a dreaded "cup & core" design?
(The base on this one also appears to be about .45 caliber) ?

Your very next post even mentions possible jacket-core separation?

Not trying to gnat-buzz you, just asking for clarification, as hunting rifle ballistics, to include scrutinizing recovered projectiles is my favorite pass-time / hobby.

Cheers,
Velo Dog.

PS:
I do not disparage lead core bullets.
When used within their intended velocity range, and caliber/bullet weight, suited to the animal hunted, in my personal experiences, they have proved extremely effective.
Nor am I against mono-metal expanding bullets, as the makers seem to be improving them regularly and people who use them, lately are reporting very fine results.

Click to expand...

Hello Velo
They are all 300 grn .375 Barnes out of the same factory loaded box. I have never seen what looks like "separation" like that either. At first I thought they might have made a mistake at the skinning shed but I was the only hunter in camp, and the P.H. never took a shot. No animals looked like they had previous wounds, can't imagine one surviving with a bullet like that in them anyway. I did take a second shot at the Oryx from the rear and I believe this is that bullet. Hope that clears up your question.

The question regarding Nosler Partition: It is basically a two part bullet. It is a full metal jacket in the rear with a "cup & core" bullet in the front. The Swift is the same idea except they bonded the front core. In the testing that I have done, which has results similar with it to bullets taken from game animals. At normal hunting velocities the front jacket peels back, most if not all of the front core dissipates, the petals fold back alongside the rear portion and the now full metal jacket penetrates. I have no experience with the newer Barnes bullets. I have shot the older X bullet with poor results. The pressures ran high- Barnes addressed this by machining half the bearing surface away. The other aspect of the X bullet was that the petals yielded non-uniformly, one side breaking off, while the other side folded partially back. the result was the remaining petal acted like a rudder and the bullet would veer off the straight direction. This was an undesirable feature in a bullet. From the looks of your bullets and from others that I have seen, it appears Barnes has made the petals yield easier and fold back more completely. Their reputation appears warranted- I do however prefer a bullet with a stout jacket, preferably of 100% copper with a pure lead core that is bonded to the jacket. If the Swift Scirrocco (sp) bullet had a stouter jacket and was designed a little more like the Bitterroot Bonded Core, it would be my idea of the best expanding bullet for big game.

mdwest said:

reviving an old thread to ask for more info if you have it...

Cabelas had Nosler factory 260gr partition ammo on sale last week for $55 a box.. I bought all that they had on the shelf (4x boxes)...

Ive never shot partitions in any caliber or rifle (I'm typically a barnes or federal guy).. I understand they have a generally good reputation though.. and at that price (plus an additional 5% discount ) I couldn't resist.. and thought it would be worth a try..

Click to expand...

Spent a day at the range and had a chance to try out the 260gr partitions...

Was surprised how "comfortable" they were to shoot.. going through a box of 20 was no big deal at all...

My rifle seems to like them ok as well.. they consistently produced 1" groups at 100....

I think I just found my PG ammo for June...

mdwest said:

Spent a day at the range and had a chance to try out the 260gr partitions...

Was surprised how "comfortable" they were to shoot.. going through a box of 20 was no big deal at all...

My rifle seems to like them ok as well.. they consistently produced 1" groups at 100....

I think I just found my PG ammo for June...

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That should work well.

After much research and pondering for a year or so before I went on my first safari in Zim last September I decided to take 300 grain bullets. I finally told myself the golden rule, keep it simple stupid. While a lighter bullet may have some advantage for a longer shot on plains game, most likely your shots will not be that far. I used north fork SS's and Cup Point Solid's. They shoot well in the gun I took. The Buffalo took 1 soft and 2 CPS's, one of which went through his heart. The Eland took a soft and several CPS's, even though the SS would have done it. The Giraffe took 5 CPS's, I was told to keep shooting as long as he was visible. The rest of the 9 animals I shot where all one shot with either a soft for the bigger animal and a solid for the little guys. Find a 300 grainer your gun likes and go have some fun.

Mr. 16 gauge said:

For those of you who use a .375 caliber rifle for plains game, what bullet weight do you prefer, and why.......not so much concerned with manufacturer or type of bullet at this point (this will come along later with reload testing), just the weight at this point......I see bullets ranging from 235 grain to 285 grain.

.....or, should I just stick with the 300 grain bullet I plan on using on buffalo? I thinking larger plains game (Eland, Zebra, ect.)

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Swift makes a 250 gr A-Frame that shoots well in my Ruger #1 and they are TOUGH

I've used 300 grain swift A-frames for everything. Heavy for caliber bullets are superior in every conceivable way except for one: they drop more.

To overcome the issue of drop, use a rangefinder that calculates drop and gives a firing solution if you need a crutch.

My buffalo rifle setup was what I had left with me the last days of my hunt looking for a bushbuck. Needed a 340 yard shot on bushbuck and that's what I had. Firing solution said aim high 16". Success.

The added benefit is if you're using a .375 you're probably in a dangerous game area. Kinda nice shooting a bullet that will protect you from DG even while looking for PG.

Just my take.

rookhawk said:

I've used 300 grain swift A-frames for everything. Heavy for caliber bullets are superior in every conceivable way except for one: they drop more.

To overcome the issue of drop, use a rangefinder that calculates drop and gives a firing solution if you need a crutch.

My buffalo rifle setup was what I had left with me the last days of my hunt looking for a bushbuck. Needed a 340 yard shot on bushbuck and that's what I had. Firing solution said aim high 16". Success.

The added benefit is if you're using a .375 you're probably in a dangerous game area. Kinda nice shooting a bullet that will protect you from DG even while looking for PG.

Just my take.

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Can't argue with that. My response was based on the original post. My impression was that he was looking to have more than one bullet weight. The A-Frame would work on all plains game. For D.G. you couldn't ever have too much imo

While I may be a bit late to the party here I just want to add my 2 cents. I used a .375 H&H loaded with 270 grain Hornady spire points loaded to 2600 fps on my hunt. I tried to use 250 grainers but my rifle just does not shoot them well. They worked wonderfully on Nyala, Wildebeest, Impala, Bushbuck and 3 Warthogs. Everything took one round and was DRT. The Nyala I took was shot at between 250-300 yards (my range judgement when I can't pace it off is only good within 50 yards) and was the only bullet I recovered. Since it was cut out of a dead animal, it worked. My Wildebeest was shot head on at 90 yards and the bullet went halfway through the animal lengthwise and ended up somewhere in about 20 lbs of undigested grass. All of the other animals had complete penetration.
I have come into some 225 grin spire points and plan to use them on my next trip on the smaller game. I am one who bucks the "only have one type of ammo" mantra. Of course, I can also shoot any PG with what I have in my rifle. So load what you shoot well and what your rifle likes and you will be fine.

I shoot a 250-grain GMX for everything out of my 375 H&H. At 2800fps it's a very adequate 300 yard plains game load and it's a deadly dangerous game load as well. I just like the idea of one load for everything and Vanessa appreciates the lower recoil..

Mr. 16 gauge said:

For those of you who use a .375 caliber rifle for plains game, what bullet weight do you prefer, and why.......not so much concerned with manufacturer or type of bullet at this point (this will come along later with reload testing), just the weight at this point......I see bullets ranging from 235 grain to 285 grain.

.....or, should I just stick with the 300 grain bullet I plan on using on buffalo? I thinking larger plains game (Eland, Zebra, ect.)

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I use to shoot everything with a 300 TSX. In October, I'll try it with the 300 Woodleigh Hydro (that means red duiker thru cape buffalo). I can hit anything out to 250-300 with a 300 gr bullet, so why worry about different loads?

I am with Red Leg, unless the two different weights of bullet have the same point of impact just use one. If considering DG or hunting in DG areas just use a stout 300 grain pill. The Hydro is better than a standard solid but not as good as a soft point. but hit them in the heart or break a shoulder the animal is not going to far.

Some great information here for sure. Use the KISS principle and you won't go too far wrong. A big bullet and a good one. You won't go wrong with a Swift A Frame or Barnes TSX. I can't comment on North Forks etc as we don't get them or supply is erratic. Even if I used a 30-06 as my SA mates do for plains game, the same would apply.
I hope you enjoy your hunt.