.375 H&H - Neck size or full-length size?

Guys, I'm looking to buy .375 H&H dies and wondering whether to get the Redding 3 die set with both sizers or the 2 die set with only full-length sizer? I only have one .375 rifle, so is neck sizing okay, or better to full-length size any brass that may be used for DG? Thanks!

My paranoid idea on the subject is about having a little room in the chamber for potential dust, etc.
So, full length resizing.

Justifiable or not. Just my thoughts.

I wouldn't worry about the neck sizer and just get the 2 die set with the full length sizer and then play with it to customize the rounds for your rifle. If you just get a neck sizing die you might find yourself wanting a full length sizing die and you can always just neck size with a full length sizing die.

The way that I set up my full length sizing die for my hunting round is to run a fired case into the die knowing that it isn't going to be fully resized, wipe the lube off of the cane then try it in my rifle. Usually the case will not chamber or will with force.

Then screw the die down 1/4 of a turn and repeat trying it in my rifle until a case will chamber with a little bit of resistance on the bolt handle when it is locked into position.

Then lock down the die and start reloading. Also try all of your loaded ammo at the range to make sure that it chambers before taking it hunting.

375 H&H?

Full length, no question.

If you were shooting a tight-neck 300 Win Mag (a tight-neck chamber), and looking to cloverleaf at 200 yards, then yeah, resize only the neck. But a 375 H&H (or any heavy hitter, for that matter), size the whole darn thing, every time.

Hi Shuter,

The .375 H&H headspaces on the belt, therefore, you gain little to nothing toward success in hunting big game with this cartridge, by only neck sizing it.
Neck sizing is more for serious bench-rest target shooters and long rang prairie dog hunters, in their efforts to put 5 shots into one hole at 100 yds or even at 200 yds these days.

If your .375 will put 3 bullets into an inch and a half at 100 paces, from sand bags, and if you can hit a coffee cup from sticks with it, you will be fine.

Be that as it may, for a few dollars more you can buy the Redding 3 die set.
Better to have the extra die and not need it than to need it and not have it.
(You might want to shoot prairie dogs with your .375 some day).

I've used various rifles in .375 H&H in Alaska, Nevada, California and Africa (Ruger single shot, Pre-64 Model 70, Rem Model 700, Merkel SxS, assorted Mausers) and have never bothered with neck sizing for them.

Whichever method / die you decide to use, prior to any hunting trip point in on something that can absorb the bullet (backstop at a Rifle Range) and run all of your live cartridges through your rifle , to be very sure your ammunition will function smoothly.

Cheers,
Velo Dog.

+1 with Velo Dog and the .375 will stop the most determined Prairie Dog charge, been there and lived to tell about it, step up to .458 for big Jack Rabbit though, always bring enough gun!

Cody

Personally I have not hunted DG. That said I also only use new brass for my hunting ammo of larger size than a coyote. Not worth the chance of a problem with used brass to me.

Not owning a 458 I am using one of my 50BMG rifles for Jack Rabbit's, and charging ground squirrels or Prairie Dogs. I have Barnes X-Bullets loaded for the 50BMG hunting rounds. With 600 or 647gr bullets at approx. 3000 FPS I have yet to fail putting one down before it got too close and did any damage. I have AP bullets if they start wearing body armor.

that is impressive on the 50 bmg , as for the .375 full size is the way to go i necked sized to see if i could get a better group dit not improve as much that you would notice , also some of the neck sized rounds were a bit sticky to come out after the shot and when hunting dangerous game like charging squirels reloading speed is critical so go full size and you know you are safe

happy hunting

I full length resize my hunting rounds. Just the way I do things.

JimP said:

I wouldn't worry about the neck sizer and just get the 2 die set with the full length sizer and then play with it to customize the rounds for your rifle. If you just get a neck sizing die you might find yourself wanting a full length sizing die and you can always just neck size with a full length sizing die.

The way that I set up my full length sizing die for my hunting round is to run a fired case into the die knowing that it isn't going to be fully resized, wipe the lube off of the cane then try it in my rifle. Usually the case will not chamber or will with force.

Then screw the die down 1/4 of a turn and repeat trying it in my rifle until a case will chamber with a little bit of resistance on the bolt handle when it is locked into position.

Then lock down the die and start reloading. Also try all of your loaded ammo at the range to make sure that it chambers before taking it hunting.

Click to expand...

+1 for load dev't and practice rounds. I prefer to only use new brass for my hunting rounds.

MS Hitman said:

I full length resize my hunting rounds. Just the way I do things.

Click to expand...

+1 !!!!

Thanks guys! I sense a consensus...

F/L Size. I've been shooting 375 H&H for close to 30 years. I have always F/L sized. The only problem I have had with brass is it just got "tired" from continuous loading. Great caliber! If you want a fun varmint round try the Hornady 220gr Flat Points. I used them to take out scores of ground hogs. Load was 67.5gr's of IMR 3031. Velocity was around 2780fps (25.5" barrel). Primers were CCI 250's & Win Large Rifle Mag primers. Neither primer had an advantage over the other. I went with what I had at the time. Grouping at 100yds was 0.50". 300yd group was 4"

Buy the F/L size die. Like others have posted, many reloaders prefer to F/L size all of their hunting rounds.

I have Partially F/L sized all of the cases that have been shot in my rifles for many years. You can do this by re-adjusting your F/L size die up 1/4 or so turn or simply place a thin (0.030") washer under your size die that is adjusted for F/L sizing. This does not bump back the shoulder so that even a belted case that has been fired in that chamber will headspace on the shoulder.

I recently bought a neck size die for my .300 Weatherby, and even after a half dozen or so firings, my neck sized cartridges chamber easily and smoothly.

Bullthrower338 said:

+1 with Velo Dog and the .375 will stop the most determined Prairie Dog charge, been there and lived to tell about it, step up to .458 for big Jack Rabbit though, always bring enough gun!

Cody

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Cody if only my mate had a double when that squirrel charged ........

JimP said:

I wouldn't worry about the neck sizer and just get the 2 die set with the full length sizer and then play with it to customize the rounds for your rifle. If you just get a neck sizing die you might find yourself wanting a full length sizing die and you can always just neck size with a full length sizing die.

The way that I set up my full length sizing die for my hunting round is to run a fired case into the die knowing that it isn't going to be fully resized, wipe the lube off of the cane then try it in my rifle. Usually the case will not chamber or will with force.

Then screw the die down 1/4 of a turn and repeat trying it in my rifle until a case will chamber with a little bit of resistance on the bolt handle when it is locked into position.

Then lock down the die and start reloading. Also try all of your loaded ammo at the range to make sure that it chambers before taking it hunting.

Click to expand...

The issue many shooters overlook is that belted cases headspace on the belt and every time a new cartridge is fired, the entire case body stretches a little, due to the pressure exerted by burning powder gasses expanding the case against the barrel chamber's wall. This is why fired cases will not allow the bolt to close without the use of force. Full length resizing puts strain on the case as the shoulder and the case body are both pushed back against the head of the case. After repeated firings and full-length resizing, low-cycle fatigue causes the case to fracture and separate due to repeated deformation by tension and compression. By seating the sizing die and adjusting it to where the resized case will chamber with just a little bit of resistance, subsequent firings eliminate or minimize stretching and compression, thus mitigating low cycle fatigue failures and greatly increasing the life of the reloaded cases.

I have no problem with full-length resizing, only BELTED MAGNUM cases, which these guys do not use, will not last as long as cases which are only partially sized, as explained above. It is perfectly OK to full length size, but do not expect the cases to last long. Also, none of these guys tell you how long their cases last. They probably don't care.

I full length resize, using a small-base die, for reliability, when reloading 5.56mm or 7.62mm cases for use in semi-automatic rifles. Cases are discarded after 2 or 3 loadings.

My test loads are only neck sized (and multiple times). When I go hunting (especially far from home) I full length size and no more than one reloading. Each cartridge is tested through the action at the range before I put them in the Pelican case ready for the trip.
Works for me, but maybe not anyone else.
Not sure a neck size only would work in a Blaser R8 due to it not having a caming action though.