Wanted dies for .450NE, .470NE & .500NE... & Any Other Stuff You Have Sitting Around You Don't Need.

Hornedfrogbbq

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Ok you saucy bastards, I've caved. I'm not going down without a little fight yet but I'm going to start this reloading journey from absolutely ZERO knowledge. Nada. Zip. Zilch. Less than anti-matter. So I've got a press ordered and i have some other things ordered...I've gotta get a book or two (I have Graeme's new-ish book), etc. You all have been wonderful with recommendations of putting together a nice reloading set-up. Now i'm executing on it.

IF you have anything you think i might need and you have extra, I'm open to considering. I'm going to stick with a slow, single stage press at this point. What i don't have are dies nor books. I have no clue why all you folks have 15 reloading books...sounds confusing...but whatever. Also, any links to any "must see" videos or youtubes that can help would surely be appreciated.

Please PM with odds and ends...I also have some 7x57 ammo i can trade (seeing as i actually needed 7x57 Rimmed) with anyone with stuff i might need.

Frosty

p.s. How many of you have had a primer go off when reloading? Just wondering. About my hands. And their continued use. Go ahead and tell me the horror stories if you have them...I need to get properly "safety pup" informed. Next you'll say I can't smoke a nice cigar while reloading.
 
1. I’ve never had a primer go off on me while reloading.
2. Different load books are good to have for comparing load data and different sources state different starting and max loads; also some books have calibers listed that others don’t.

I would highly recommend you get a set of digital calipers that will be easier to read unless you’ve used the analog set before.

After you charge your cases with powder always shine a flashlight down the necks to confirm all have been filled or not over filled.

Automatic powder dispensers/scales are very nice but make sure you calibrate and verify it’s correct before starting and do quality control tests while loading to insure consistency.

Most importantly take your time and start with a common caliber non magnum(.270,308,30-06) to start loading; this will help you get your means and methods down.

Always put the load data on the ammo container.
 
1. I’ve never had a primer go off on me while reloading.
2. Different load books are good to have for comparing load data and different sources state different starting and max loads; also some books have calibers listed that others don’t.

I would highly recommend you get a set of digital calipers that will be easier to read unless you’ve used the analog set before.

After you charge your cases with powder always shine a flashlight down the necks to confirm all have been filled or not over filled.

Automatic powder dispensers/scales are very nice but make sure you calibrate and verify it’s correct before starting and do quality control tests while loading to insure consistency.

Most importantly take your time and start with a common caliber non magnum(.270,308,30-06) to start loading; this will help you get your means and methods down.

Always put the load data on the ammo container.

Solid advice right here.
 
Some of my starting thoughts:

1. Reload equipment is a buy once cry once endeavor. Lower end brands get the job done, but I've personally felt like the pricier equipment really did offer more for the extra $$$ spent.

2. My personal favorite press setup is a Dillon 550. Back in the day I got a single-stage conversion kit (that I think is no longer offered) which let's me run in manual-progressive or a true single stage. I load all big boy calibers in single stage mode. "Common calibers" I run in manual.

3. Progressive presses are great if you shoot 1000's of rounds of common calibers a month but I generally wouldn't ever recommend them for beginners, or anything outside of stuff like 9,40,223,300bo and similar. Even then, I generally only use mine for batch operations like depriming, and maybe sizing. I've got a Dillon 650 for this, and even with Dillon I just find that it can screw up enough to not be worth the trouble. This might be that my machine isn't dialed in as well as it could be, but to be honest, I've never "needed" progressive amounts of ammo so I've not cared to work on it.

4. I recommend getting what I call the "SCALE OF RECORD". It doesn't really matter what this scale is, but preferably a nice one that will last. Once designated this scale will be the baseline for all measurements from then on. If you are loading 33gr of powder, it's not 33gr until it says 33 on THAT scale. The idea is that then you can get an automatic and compare the results to know that the automatic is actually throwing what it says it is. Every now and then get a second Scale of Record and make sure that it's absolutely dialed in with the first so that it can be "Scale of Record in Waiting". With that sorted, you can always have a hard reference for powder measurements.

5. I've never had a primer go off randomly, but I have had one blowup in a Lee Autoprime bench tool or whatever they call it. The one that mounts to the bench and you plug the primer tray in and blah blah. The primer didn't go all the way down the chute, and when I hit the handle to prime it caught it in the chute and not the bullet and blew up. Quite the experience. 0/10 recommendation. Threw all Lee priming tools away after that.

6. Estate Sales are you absolute best friend for finding gear. Loooots of great deals out there. I've got 6k of Dillon stuff for about $1600 because of this. I've got 1000's of reloading supplies for almost pennies on the dollar this way. Now the big caveat is that you will need to be able to check/assess and possible make-ready the equipment. If you buy components you will want to ABSOLUTELY WEIGH AND CHECK EVERYTHING. For instance, once I loaded some 300BO from a box of Hornady bullets that said weight "X". Took them to the range. Nearly blew up my gun and blewout my pants. Went home, pulled bullets apart and they were weight "Y" that'd been put in the "X" box and I was 2-3gr over max load. That was a learning experience for me.

7. Don't. Skimp. On. Calipers. Or. Other. Measuring. Tools. (but also you don't need to get solid gold. I've got Mitutoyo as well as Gear Wrench and to be honest, they both measure the same. I use the Gear Wrench most because they are digital, but having the analogue available is great and requires no battery).

8. Get a stuck case removal kit. You will need it. Learn how to use it on Youtube before you need to. If you want to avoid this lesson, make sure you get educated on using lube properly. Just kidding, you'll still need this at some point.

9. I recommend making "Calibration cases" with extra brass. For instance, if I have some extra brass, I'll fully prep it to the specs I'm going to run with. Then I grab one of all my spare bullets and weights, and then I finish it without a powder or primer with the bullet seated/crimped the way I want. That way I can quickly calibrate my seating dies.

10. I have Hornady, Speer, Nosler, Sierra and like 5 other books for load data. Then I have like 200 PDF versions of archive and powder specific ones. I tend to look at the newest data. My rule is that I'll look it up in three sources, then start at the LOWEST of the starting charges and work up from there. If book A says start with 82gr of powder and book B says "no no, it's cool to start at 85" I'm starting at 82.

11. I never want to load a round to max. I will always try to find an accuracy node around 75% of published max. This gives me lots of headroom in case of human error such as point 6.

12. Go get an Athlon Rangecraft. OMG I wish I had that sooner. You will NEED good velocity numbers and that is a stellar tool for the money.

13. When you make a load, DO NOT skimp on data labeling it. Powder type, powder weight. How many times has the brass been fired, what primer type, what bullet type and weight. Write down the EXPECTED velocity from the load data too (use it with the chrono from 11) because you don't know how it's performing without figuring out how far above or below expectations you are. I'd rather be below expectation than above as an aside. Just know that the expected velocity is from THEIR test gun in THEIR range in THEIR controlled conditions and will not equal YOUR performance.


I could go on, these are just some starting thoughts.
 
All of the above.
Also with recording your loads, I have a A3 notebook that I record all load data in as well as on the storage case. The notebook with one double page per cartridge till full then start another double page further along, is my long term record that helps me keep track of what loads have been tried and their results.
Gumpy
 
I appreciate this info as well! My wife's grandma passed away this year and had a ton of reloading stuff. We used to reload together. I was able to get a decent start to my own collection.
 
And a really really important one while I'm thinking about it, and since it was kind of a topic for my last range trip.

14. Define what an accurate load is FOR YOU AND YOUR PURPOSES.

This is kind of a key one because you can go chasing rabbits down holes and trying to herd cats really really quickly when you start trying to reload. Every single person on the internet has a sub-MOA load that they worked up and swears will work in -50F to +150F and one time their pa-paw picked up the rifle they loaded it for and shot a target so well at 3000 yard that ladies in 4 counties got pregnant.

Me? I'm not like that (generally). I want a safe, predictable round that will meet either "minute of deer" or "minute of bad guy" accuracy. If I'm developing a hunting load, I want 1-1.5 MOA and anything better than that is awesome. I define Minute of Bad guy as a term for 223 and similar rounds and I count that as 4-6 MOA.

The reason for me is simple --- if I assume that I load all the thousand of pieces of brass for common calibers I have, then honestly, they will all react different. Because I'm not going to load common calibers on a per-gun basis. I have multiple AR's and 9s and 40s and blah blah. I'm going to try to find a really solid load that works on what I define as my "SHTF I better pick something and bug out" guns (there are two of those long and two shorter) and then hope they work well in the others. Once I have that first load, I'll try to recreate the same velocity and POI with a different powder and primer combination so I have a few recipes that keep me on target in event that my favorite powder or primers disappears from store shelves (I'm looking at you Alliant Unique!!!). Even then, I assume that if I actually shot all those rounds the guns themselves would start to shoot slightly different over that course which would affect perfection anyways.

Now, for hunting loads, I assume I'm not going to be firing thousands of rounds. I'm going to make them in a more controlled manner. Generally I'll weigh all powders and check them rather than using an automated drop for instance. I'm going to make sure my brass is all trimmed the same. There are bits of prep I'll do that I simple won't for common calibers that I expect are going to result in better performance when I do my part behind the trigger. And I'll just say I am not the world's premier marksman. I get to go to the range precious little between work and spending time with my daughter and that is fine by me. Combine that with the plethora of different calibers and types of guns I have and I don't specialize in any of them. So I want to be good behind each, but don't aim to be sub-MOA perfect on each.

Now, that's not to say I don't have things that I will get really picky about. Two of my favorites that I have are Savage 110 BA LE 338 Lapua Mags. I fully expect that each of those can be a sub-MOA rifle. I expect my processes to get me to sub-MOA with those and I will absolutely chase those. Because that is fundamentally a precision rifle. I've never had an animal charge me, but I think I'm safe in the assumption that in that time frame you want the bullet to go pretty close to point of aim, but that you're probably not going to have time to control breathing and get the perfect shot off. If I'm shooting the 338LM on the other hand I fully expect I'm at a controlled range, prone with a good bipod and time to account for wind and other factors to get the perfect shot off. And so I just have a higher bar for that.

Each of those categories is a ME thing though --- every member here will likely have a different take, or different set of definitions and priorities. But in the real world this is how my last range day went:

1. 375 H&H - Started good, was inside .6" at 25 yards until it suffered rifle failure. I was happy with that because I was just using "burner rounds" to test with as function check. These were rounds that I had made and tested with in the past, but they just didn't make the cut for "I'm going to make more of these but they are still fine to shoot" so being at 2MOA (extrapolated out) was groovy.
2. 416 Rem - About the same as the 375 --- was showing real promise till some lingering rifle issues shut the testing down. But all tested rounds were doing really well and showing promise.
3. 338LM --- I was trying a brand new load on a new-to-me rifle setup with literally a complete guess on load and bullet. When I got a pretty solid .8-1.2 MOA at 100 with it I was pretty darn happy. It's not where I want to be, but it's a very solid starting point considering I was taking guesses. With this one, my next step will be to work that load up with the same bullets and brass in .3gr increments till I find the happy node.
4. The happiest test of the day was AR based. I had loaded up some more complete guess/test rounds and got about 3-4 MOA out of them at 100. That one meets my personal criteria for workable. It's not preferred, but it's workable. I've got like 5 other test combinations built that I didn't get to take that day, so I'll keep playing, but I came away from that going "if I had to mass produce these for SHTF, well, they'd be MOBD" so that was a win.

It's all a bit subjective.

15. Whenever you are trying something new, try to have a friend with you in case something goes wrong. There are a lot of variables, and we're humans. When testing loads, try to have a friend with you. Having some basic first aid knowledge would be great too. I keep quick CAT's in my range bag, as well as first aid/trauma kits in my truck for general purposes for instance.

16. Never ever trust someone's else's reloads completely. If you acquire reloads, you can make a determination if you trust them, but generally...don't. The other instance I've had where I never blew up a gun came from someone's else's reloads. I acquired a bunch of reloading stuff from an estate where it was fairly clear that the person knew a thing or two and wasn't a novice. Old school loader for sure. In that was a 220 swift and a decent amount of rounds for it. I let myself slack in this case just like the story above because of that. In this story I fired a round and saw it impact the target, but the report didn't sounds right. I took out the bolt, barrel checked it and saw daylight at the other end. The POI was low but I'd fired three and counted three holes. I decided to move on. Put the bolt back in and tried to chamber a round but couldn't get it in the barrel. Found that the case head had blow off the case, and left the rest of the brass stuck in the chamber. That shut down that rifle for the day, and when I post-mortem'd I found that the rounds that the dude who again was not a novice had made were about 1.5mm too far out, and had probably jammed the lands and caused a major pressure spike. So I just ripped all the rest of those rounds right apart for components and counted myself lucky that me and the rifle were in good condition.
 
I am starting the same journey, although I have reloaded with a guy I know using/hiring his equipment but that became very expensive with his charges. My brother in law just gave me a press and other equipment and I purchased dies for my rifles. I already had bullets and cases. It is a big step down in equipment but the savings on my 458 Lott will pay off in approx 70 rounds. So I already have several safe loads with various powders worked up in my Lott from previous reloading but will be starting with the 30-06. I put a new top on a bench this weekend and now will mount the press, ready to start soon.

@Rez Exelon, I like your style. You echo many of my own thoughts - Everyone online can shoot through the eye of a needle with every gun they own but a trip to the range leaves a target looking like it was hit with a shotgun. I like your advice on safety and would add the need for good safety glasses when testing new loads. I have also considered powder choice for new reloaders. I downloaded Gordons reloading tool and have been playing around with it. It allows you to simulate different powders and choose something that loads at around 100% case fill. This will help you to see overloads by looking in the case. I think the temptation is to push velocity and get into over pressure territory.
 

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