A day at the range

Lakebranch338

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A few pics from today. I hate the reason, corona, but i had a day of from work.
What better way to spend it on the range? Also, spring is in the air!
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My FN A5 cal 12 made in 1922.
Its beat up, but mechanically really good. Love it!

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My Mannlicher Schönauer 1950 in 30-06. Not much to say, its up for sale.
If i could find a better scope mount for it, it might get to stay. I do own an old Zeiss 8x56 that would be really lovley on it. No rush withe either sell or buy.
Not in mint condition, thats for sure, but its a good shooter.
The recoil however, its not so nice..
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My M70 375 H&H.
Topped with an Kahles Helia 2-10x50 with warne qd scope mounts.
Got to do some load development for it today.
Will be using Norma Oryx in 300 gr.

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Today, this was the best i got the 375 H&H to shoot with the Oryx.
Its at 80 m, five shots. Honestly, the two shots to the sides, my fault.
Also, its brand new and i could do some more load development i guess.

Oh yeah! Also, i got a new knife for half the price! A Eka Swede 10. Have owned a Swingblade for many many years before this one.
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Some days are better then others, despite a world full of shit!
Keep on being great!
 
Way to enjoy yourself and take your mind off things!
 
Lakebranch,
Try a load of 63 gr of 4064 and a Barnes 235g TSX. I get cloverleaves out of my Win 70 375HH at 100 yds. with it.
 
Lakebranch,
Try a load of 63 gr of 4064 and a Barnes 235g TSX. I get cloverleaves out of my Win 70 375HH at 100 yds. with it.
Yes Sir. I will absolutley try that.

However, at the moment i really would like to support our Swedish manufacturer Norma, given the world economics. Also, IMR powder is not common available here.
Dont think i have ever seen 235 gr barnes neither. Lots of other Barnes bullets though.

The load today, with the best result was 69 gr of Norma 203B.
 
Glad you got some time to shoot. Your first picture of the shotgun looks just like my Browning Light 12
 
At least you got to go to the range! Mine is closed!:mad:
 
Glad you got some time to shoot. Your first picture of the shotgun looks just like my Browning Light 12

Mine is really, really beat up. But i dont know, new wood and a new bluing..maybe its better to let it show thats she lived a hard, long life.

Also, it makes me wonder, who did buy a semi automatic shotgun 1922 here in Sweden? It must have been something really really out of the ordinary.
For sure it must have been a real gun lover.
 
Your FN A5 is a derivative of Browning's A5 that was designed in 1898. From what I just read that shotgun was produced by one manufacturer or another for 100 years. It is no wonder that John Moses Browning is considered one of the best gun designers that ever lived.
 
Mine is really, really beat up. But i dont know, new wood and a new bluing..maybe its better to let it show thats she lived a hard, long life.

Also, it makes me wonder, who did buy a semi automatic shotgun 1922 here in Sweden? It must have been something really really out of the ordinary.
For sure it must have been a real gun lover.

They were made popular during World War 1 as they were used in the trenches loaded with buckshot!
 
Charlie, I thought that it was the Winchester Model 97 that was the "trench" gun you referred to. However I just read where the A5 was used extensively as well. You learn something new every day. Thanks.
 
Well, it looks like im home for the weekend. Stupid virus.

Would it be of interest to anybody if i were to bed a M70XTR in 338 win mag and document it here? Also there is a crack between the trigger and the magazine well that i would be glueing.
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If i got time i will do some minor work, a quick fix really, on the floor plate latch wich dont lock the way i would like it to.
 
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A fine crack in the stock of the 338 win mag. Not sure if somebody tried to fix it before. Well i cleand it with acetone and made sure with a small skrewdriver that the glue really got in there.

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After letting the glue dry under pressure for 24/h it looks like this.
Actually, i think there is more glue than wood now:D
Dont expect that to be a problem anytime soon again. The glue of my choise was Loctite 401.


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And some realoding of 375 H&H.
Now im off to the range to zero the open sights on my 375.
 
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Are you still going to bed the action? If so, are you going to do a standard or pillar bedding job?
 
That is a very common area for a crack in a Win 70 stock. I don't think it is always from recoil either. And adding glue to the crack probably won't solve the problem in the long term. Could be wood drying, action screw compression, recoil or a combination of those ... but no matter. There is a reason cross bolts are added to many rifles.

Your pic shows the web area for the rear cross bolt for Win 70s. The front cross bolt would go just behind the main recoil lug (between the recoil lug and front action screw). If you pillar bed, which is a very good idea by the way, be sure to allow enough clearance for the pillar to fit between the lug and the action screw.

Attached some pics of relationship of a pillar bedded Win 70 showing action screws locations, recoil lug and cross bolts.

bottom view of rear cross bolt location through middle of web
bottom view of front cross bolt location
top view of front cross bolt location between recoil lug and pillared action screw

Win 70 rear crossbolt bot.JPG
Win 70 front pillar bot.JPG
Win 70 front pillar top.JPG
 
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That is a very common area for a crack in a Win 70 stock. I don't think it is always from recoil either. And adding glue to the crack probably won't solve the problem in the long term. Could be wood drying, action screw compression, recoil or a combination of those ... but no matter. There is a reason cross bolts are added to many rifles.

Your pic shows the web area for the rear cross bolt for Win 70s. The front cross bolt would go just behind the main recoil lug (between the recoil lug and front action screw). If you pillar bed, which is a very good idea by the way, be sure to allow enough clearance for the pillar to fit between the lug and the action screw.

Attached some pics of relationship of a pillar bedded Win 70 showing action screws locations, recoil lug and cross bolts.

bottom view of rear cross bolt location through middle of web
bottom view of front cross bolt location
top view of front cross bolt location between recoil lug and pillared action screw

True, im aware the glueing wont solve the problem. Pretty sure the problem is three things.
One, the wood is compressed. Two, the fitting is not great. These problems will be solved when i bed it. I will probably have to raise the receiver half a mm in the stock.

And third. Somebody has at some point not thighten down the stock screws. Probably a combination with the compressed wood.

The glue really is a feel good thing more then a real fix.

However, i payed less then $120 for the rifle and the metal is almost in mint condition.
I might go for a Boyds laminated.
 
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From todays visit to the range. Above is a Husqvarna 640 M98 in 8x57is.
And below a Voere M98 in 6,5x55
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