458 Winchester Magnum

[fourfive8]

The receiver serial on that rifle, if made 1951, should be numbers only- no prefix letters. If there is a letter prefix, it is a much more recent manufacture. Prefix of G beginning after 1968. A 1951 serial should be - 173151 thru 206625

Here's a couple links to Win M70 serial dates
https://winchestercollector.org/dates/
http://oldguns.net/sn_php/windateslookup.php

 

[TOBY458]

Is it a mauser style bolt, or push feed?

 

[Deleted member 46122]

Is it a mauser style bolt, or push feed?

It’s CRF. I think we have solved the mystery. I entered the Serial number with the letter designation because the website wouldn’t accept the letter, only numbers. Even though it’s a low serial number, the “G” changes everything.
Anyway, thanks for the reply/ comments.

 

[Shootist43]

John, I recently went through a similar experience with a newly acquired 375 H&H. Mine turned out to be of recent manufacture. Another way to quickly tell what vintage it is, is to measure the hole spacing of the rear sight base. On new magnums the spacing is 0.330", on pre 64(s) it is 0.880".

 

[Wyatt Smith]

Pre 64s have a knurled strip on top of the receiver ring to make it a non glare surface. Also the bolt has an anti bind lug on it. These are the easiest ways to tell a pre 64. Sorry about the bad pictures this is my 1958 30-06

 

[fourfive8]

There it is ... simplest answer is usually the correct one “use the exact correct serial number for determining DOMs.”

For whatever reason many of the links/sites for detailed searches for serial dating more modern / post-68 Winchester’s (and others) have been placed waaaay down the list by the AI geniuses at google et al.

No matter, mystery solved. And IMO, if it is a later CRF, New Haven manufactured rifle... it may be the best of the best for M 70s. You have a very nice rifle!

 

[Deleted member 46122]

There it is ... simplest answer is usually the correct one “use the exact correct serial number for determining DOMs.”

For whatever reason many of the links/sites for detailed searches for serial dating more modern / post-68 Winchester’s (and others) have been placed waaaay down the list by the AI geniuses at google et al.

No matter, mystery solved. And IMO, if it is a later CRF, New Haven manufactured rifle... it may be the best of the best for M 70s. You have a very nice rifle!

It is a New Haven rifle, as well as CRF. Plus, it’s really a shooter! Thank you for the courteous reply. As you said, mystery solved.

 

[fourfive8]

Excellent! I have had many, many M70s over the years including very early pre-64s, later pre-64 CRFs, post-64 push feeds, post-64 CRFs and a couple of the newer, post-New Haven FNs.

IMO Winchester got it right with those later New Haven CRF M70s. Combining/retaining all the best features- like the most reliable, all condition trigger ever designed for a hunting rifle, smoothest cycling anti-bind system on any Mauser-type bolt, excellent stock ergonomics, excellent barrel, best three position safety design on any bolt gun.....

They are relatively easy to work on and since yours is not a "collectible" pre-64, no problem doing some aftermarket improvement if you like. On my "modern" M70s used for serious hunting, I pillar bed and full length glass bed them- bedding both the bottom metal and the full length of the action and barrel (I do not free float my DG rifles). Done that way they do not change POI over time and it greatly reduces the risk of stock cracking around the receiver contact area from recoil and from action screw compression or water/humidity changes over time. I can separate barreled action from stock for a shorter package hard case and reassemble after travel with no change in POI by simply indexing the actions screws to the same place each time.

 

[Deleted member 46122]

That’s goo

Excellent! I have had many, many M70s over the years including very early pre-64s, later pre-64 CRFs, post-64 push feeds, post-64 CRFs and a couple of the newer, post-New Haven FNs.

IMO Winchester got it right with those later New Haven CRF M70s. Combining/retaining all the best features- like the most reliable, all condition trigger ever designed for a hunting rifle, smoothest cycling anti-bind system on any Mauser-type bolt, excellent stock ergonomics, excellent barrel, best three position safety design on any bolt gun.....

They are relatively easy to work on and since yours is not a "collectible" pre-64, no problem doing some aftermarket improvement if you like. On my "modern" M70s used for serious hunting, I pillar bed and full length glass bed them- bedding both the bottom metal and the full length of the action and barrel (I do not free float my DG rifles). Done that way they do not change POI over time and it greatly reduces the risk of stock cracking around the receiver contact area from recoil and from action screw compression or water/humidity changes over time. I can separate barreled action from stock for a shorter package hard case and reassemble after travel with no change in POI by simply indexing the actions screws to the same place each time.

That’s good advice.
I have a “brand new “ Express in .375 H&H that’s super accurate. I love it. Not as nice a finish as the .458 but a fine rifle none the less. I’m having a hell of a time finding scope bases for it. The thread pattern changed but the spacing is the same. Weird.
I also have a Mod. 70 “Alaskan” in 338 Win Mag, that’s CRF as well. I know that it was bought in the lower 48 and came up in the early 70’s. Of course I have a 30/06 Mod. 70 push feed, and the local Gun Smith is building me a 404 Jeffery on a pre 64 action as this is written.
It’s gonna be a beauty.
I have many other fire arms of course including a 10.75x68 and other oddities, plus I’m currently in negotiations to buy a Gibbs 450/400 from a well known double guy on here.
Thank you for your valuable input.
Please feel free to stay in touch.
John

 

[Hoss Delgado]

If it's got a second recoil lug , that'll mean that it was built closer to 1964 , man The early ones had one lug .
Yours is probably a rebarrel job