375 H&H scope

I literally crack up when I see a huge scope on a Big bore gun then the bloody "smiles" come.

Didn’t realize a 2-10 or a 2-12 was a huge scope....that size scope is fairly compact with 1 inch or 30mm tubes and 42mm objectives, normally in the middle to lower side of what manufactures offer in magnification options, and provides quite a bit of flexibility for both close to longer range shots. Seems perfectly appropriate for a 375, 9.3, 338/300 win mag, etc. that can reach out 300 yards, or more. I personally like to zoom in quite a bit when I take a shot out past 200 yards so I don’t have to squint at a low power shot picture. Generally run my scope all the way in (2x with my new Leupold) when stalking, but once I get an animal located I’m swinging the quick throw lever to bring that animal up close. With these new scopes having such high mag values now, what used to be a 2-8 or 3-9 is now 2-10 or 2-12 or 1.7-13.
 
Good point raised above regarding the lowest power of your scope on one or two power you will prominently see your front iron sight or at least the front of the barrel both of which will confuse you at the moment of truth so I generally like to keep it at 2.5. as to why anyone needs higher than 6 power on a big game rifle we will never know...
 
Didn’t realize a 2-10 or a 2-12 was a huge scope....that size scope is fairly compact with 1 inch or 30mm tubes and 42mm objectives, normally in the middle to lower side of what manufactures offer in magnification options, and provides quite a bit of flexibility for both close to longer range shots. Seems perfectly appropriate for a 375, 9.3, 338/300 win mag, etc. that can reach out 300 yards, or more. I personally like to zoom in quite a bit when I take a shot out past 200 yards so I don’t have to squint at a low power shot picture. Generally run my scope all the way in (2x with my new Leupold) when stalking, but once I get an animal located I’m swinging the quick throw lever to bring that animal up close. With these new scopes having such high mag values now, what used to be a 2-8 or 3-9 is now 2-10 or 2-12 or 1.7-13.
What I meant by big is magnification five or six power will easily make a 300 yard shot. Men tend to be fixated on big scopes... But for some of us it's a free world! In my experience it's beyond 300 yards when you need higher magnification the physically larger scope which comes with it... I have seen people with compromised vision that had to use a higher magnification scope up close. That I understand.
 
As I always say the hunting world is about selling the next greatest thing every year. It's realizing that you don't need that that's important. What worked in 1975 works today perfectly. . I chose an arbitrary year when the likes of Elmer Keith was still around. Of course he was fond of stalking up close with open sights.
 
Go to one of the few stores that has every manufacturer's optics and you will see a vast difference in quality and ridiculously expensive will surprise you in that it may not be the best scope for you and your gun. For a limited range dangerous game gun I looked at Zeiss kahles Swarovski et al but the bright dot fine number four Plex large-diameter 1 to 6 power great field of view and price two to three times less worked for me! Many other Scopes were too busy not bright enough not clear enough Etc. Now on a long-range gun which a375 is not I might take a slightly different approach...
 
Keep in mind that they are selling you a $2,000 scope Now it's nearly even Steven but they are still charging you twice as much. At some point that must enter into the equation unless you are exceptionally generous.
Go to one of the few stores that has every manufacturer's optics and you will see a vast difference in quality and ridiculously expensive will surprise you in that it may not be the best scope for you and your gun. For a limited range dangerous game gun I looked at Zeiss kahles Swarovski et al but the bright dot fine number four Plex large-diameter 1 to 6 power great field of view and price two to three times less worked for me! Many other Scopes were too busy not bright enough not clear enough Etc. Now on a long-range gun which a375 is not I might take a slightly different approach...
A 30 or 338 caliber is an entirely different animal than a 375. Yes you can hand load a 375 to shoot to 500 yards on plains game but you'll need to pop a different scope on it or off it LOL for dangerous game because those loads will not print the same. That might not work out so efficiently on targets of opportunity in the field. Lighter caliber rifles are clearly more flat shooting and designed for longer distance on smaller targets thus the need for 10 12 16 18 even 25 power for the best of them. But not in a big bore rifle. I found 14 to 16 power works just fine out to 700 yards so that would translate into 7.5 power at 350 yards or 5 to 6 power at 300 yards. Leupold also has a phenomenal reticle in its 1.5 to 5 power which is a small red dot with a black 12 inch at 100 yards diameter circle around it. That scope is phenomenal for making running shots as well as shots out to 300 yards. Even the circle helps with aiming at that distance. Good luck with whatever you choose or have chosen !
 
if you are so close that 2x is too much, you won't have time to drop the scope.
a scope will always be faster than irons because you have to line up less things.
you just need the right scope.
bruce.

If you are classing a red/green dot type sights as a scope, then I’d agree that it will be a bit faster. Didn’t used to feel that way, but after borrowing a couple of rifles with the red/green dot sights at the range, I have to give them the credit they are due. A traditional scope however, even at a 1x power, no way is that going to be faster up close than iron sights since you have to get your eye relief/eye position to the scope in the right place to get the target in view then sight to the reticle. Traditional scopes also degrade your ability to “instinctively” shoulder, aim and shoot which is where iron sights shine, IMO, and the red/green dot sights enhance that. But I’m an old iron sights guy and practice with them regularly so guess that makes a difference. If you are so close that a low power 1.5-2x power scope is too much then you are in trouble already, and probably haven’t been paying attention to your surroundings. That’s either where your backup jumps in or you should have already dropped your scope before you walked into the situation to begin with.
 
Just wanted to remind folks as it could save a life for those who did not realize... In close quarters shooting the combat types say "in a fight, front sight" meaning in a dangerous game charge and/or in the thick stuff you can simply point the front sight at the Target and you will hit reasonably well quicker than a scope and with and unobscured view of the action! The reason quick detachable mounts are advised for big game hunting. Others prefer grabbing their double rifle. I saw one guy's set up in which he had a fully electronic reticle that could be turned off. Using low mounts and when on 1 to 2 power the scope lined up perfectly with the front sight and thus he simply turned off the display in this case.
 
Just wanted to remind folks as it could save a life for those who did not realize... In close quarters shooting the combat types say "in a fight, front sight" meaning in a dangerous game charge and/or in the thick stuff you can simply point the front sight at the Target and you will hit reasonably well quicker than a scope and with and unobscured view of the action! The reason quick detachable mounts are advised for big game hunting. Others prefer grabbing their double rifle. I saw one guy's set up in which he had a fully electronic reticle that could be turned off. Using low mounts and when on 1 to 2 power the scope lined up perfectly with the front sight and thus he simply turned off the display in this case.

I'm always amazed when I see a hunter in "bear" country, shoot a deer/elk/moose, then stroll towards it with scope still mounted, no side arm, as if nature is standing still waiting for him to collect his prize. QD scope mounts are there for a reason, get that scope off, either have open sights available or mount a red/green dot site, and be prepared should a predator decide the kill is his instead of yours. Can't imagine Africa is any different, maybe even more so in this regard. Was watching a YouTube video last week of a lion hunt, the client and his PH are walking through heavy brush and guess what's sitting atop the client's rifle? Yep, a scope, and the lion is within 20 yards and not happy because the first shot the client took just wounded him....the PH is carrying a big double, but the client should have had enough situational awareness (or flat common sense) to get that scope off and be ready for a close range encounter.
 
That $429 1-4 zeiss blowout at eurooptic would be ideal on a budget. A 1-8 swarm would be the best if money is no object. An ee model on 1x would work in close.
 
C.W. Richter, I think we must have attended the same "school of thought" or had the same teacher somewhere in our past. My normal hunting for Michigan Whitetail is 200 yds. max with most shots being under 100. There is no need for high power scopes in short yardage applications. I can clearly see the need for greater magnification when longer distances are the norm and not the exception. The guys that hunt out West or in the mountains need the additional magnification. But as you said, they are generally using flatter shooting rifles / calibers.
 
C.W. Richter, I think we must have attended the same "school of thought" or had the same teacher somewhere in our past. My normal hunting for Michigan Whitetail is 200 yds. max with most shots being under 100. There is no need for high power scopes in short yardage applications. I can clearly see the need for greater magnification when longer distances are the norm and not the exception. The guys that hunt out West or in the mountains need the additional magnification. But as you said, they are generally using flatter shooting rifles / calibers.

Quality trumps magnification. I’d rather have a 4x German scope 30 mins after sunset than an 8x Leopold. I never hear complaints people couldn’t make the shot due to zoom, only that they couldn’t see the animal through bad glass that wouldn’t gather light.
 
Quality trumps magnification. I’d rather have a 4x German scope 30 mins after sunset than an 8x Leopold. I never hear complaints people couldn’t make the shot due to zoom, only that they couldn’t see the animal through bad glass that wouldn’t gather light.

Agree, however you might want to try one of the new VX-6HD's from Leopold....new HD glass is very good at dusk and dawn, was first thing I checked when I got mine. Would have returned them if they didn't do a good job in lower light. Some of this optics stuff is a bit subjective, however most of the higher end scopes certainly do better in lower light conditions so the question gets down to how much better is one over another based on price differences (1%-3% difference in light transmission = $1000 + in price?).
 
The way I look at my 375 is it’s one of the most versatile calibers I own so I scope it accordingly. It is an excellent Plains game caliber as well as dangerous game...iron sights work, 1-6x works, etc. I like my 375 so much that I use it for spike elk hunts out West and even feral hogs here in Texas...again 1-6x will work but 8x or 10x can be helpful, not needed but helpful.

The way I looked at it the 1.7x-10 in QR rings was the most versatile and fits all of it. So some say higher magnification leads to scope brow...the eye relief on a 1-6 and 1.7-10 is the same...3.7-3.8” or so. The EE models is 120mm or 4.7”ish. I wouldn’t consider a 375H&H an extremely hard kicker so if the scope is hitting you at 3.7” eye relief I would suggest it is more of a gun fit/short length of pull/shooting form issue than eye relief.

At 6’4 with 37” sleeves if I pick up a standard 13.5” LOP gun my thumb is coming across my nose and there is a high potential for scope cut. At 15-15.5” LOP the rifle sits in the pocket of my shoulder and eye relief becomes much less of an issue.
 
If you are classing a red/green dot type sights as a scope, then I’d agree that it will be a bit faster. Didn’t used to feel that way, but after borrowing a couple of rifles with the red/green dot sights at the range, I have to give them the credit they are due. A traditional scope however, even at a 1x power, no way is that going to be faster up close than iron sights since you have to get your eye relief/eye position to the scope in the right place to get the target in view then sight to the reticle. Traditional scopes also degrade your ability to “instinctively” shoulder, aim and shoot which is where iron sights shine, IMO, and the red/green dot sights enhance that. But I’m an old iron sights guy and practice with them regularly so guess that makes a difference. If you are so close that a low power 1.5-2x power scope is too much then you are in trouble already, and probably haven’t been paying attention to your surroundings. That’s either where your backup jumps in or you should have already dropped your scope before you walked into the situation to begin with.

getting your eye relief/eye position is automatic if the scope/rifle is set up properly, and much faster than aligning front and rear irons.
you bring it up and it is there.
if the stock is a right fit it will also point where your mind is pointing.
1x has a wide latitude for eye relief as well.
and they do not shoot differently in different light.
my scoped rifles can be "instinctively shouldered, aimed, and shot" very well.
should this not be the case for you, there is something wrong with your setup or your training that needs to be dealt with.
bruce.
 
I see now the Leupold 36 mm is a 2.5 to 8 power but I believe Leupold is one of the manufacturers for an extra fee they will put any reticle you like in the scope. That said I wound up getting a trijicon 1 to 6 power 30 mm with the constantly lit iridium green dot that can be adjusted to your liking. For Leupold scopes I recommend swfa and for trijicon you can get demonstrator models on the cheap from eurooptic. You can even trade in your old scopes at swfa!

The VX3 In 2.5-8x is indeed a great scope. However I don’t believe that it is available with an illuminated reticle?
 
That’s not really a fair comparison, a most honest comparison would be to hold the VX-6HD next to the Swarovski Z6I as they are direct competitors. I did and they are so close to each other it becomes a matter of preference and price. I’ll take the Leupold for the lifetime warranty as Swarovski doesn’t stand behind their product in that manner. The Z8I’s are in a different league from both of these 6x scopes, and pretty much anything else out there right now. I personally like the 1.7-13x42 Z8I, great for up close and plenty of magnification to get you where you want to be, with a little extra to spare. If I’m so close that a 1.7 or 2 times power scope is too much, I’m dropping that scope and going to open sights. That’s one reason why I mount with quick release mounts.

That is a great suggestion on the 1.7-13x42 Z8. If it’s in the budget it meets all the criteria set by the OP.
 
getting your eye relief/eye position is automatic if the scope/rifle is set up properly, and much faster than aligning front and rear irons.
you bring it up and it is there.
if the stock is a right fit it will also point where your mind is pointing.
1x has a wide latitude for eye relief as well.
and they do not shoot differently in different light.
my scoped rifles can be "instinctively shouldered, aimed, and shot" very well.
should this not be the case for you, there is something wrong with your setup or your training that needs to be dealt with.
bruce.

Nothing wrong with my equipment or my training....been practicing with open sights for 45 years and very proficient with them.
 

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