Finding the correct arrow

[MarkCZ]

Hi chaps, I need to ask how to find the correct arrow for hunting game up to Oryx sized animals.
My bow is a 55 pound compound bow, my draw length is 29 inches. I have bought some Easton Gamegetter. XX75 with a 300 spine. However they are 32 inches in length. Are they too long?
thanks for any input as I am still learning.
MarkCZ

 

[375 Ruger Fan]

Your arrow length sound about right.........3 to 4 inches longer than your draw length.

This is a good resource:
https://www.completeguidetoarchery.com/how-to-choose-arrows-a-guide/#tab-con-4

 

[KMG Hunting Safaris]

Hi chaps, I need to ask how to find the correct arrow for hunting game up to Oryx sized animals.
My bow is a 55 pound compound bow, my draw length is 29 inches. I have bought some Easton Gamegetter. XX75 with a 300 spine. However they are 32 inches in length. Are they too long?
thanks for any input as I am still learning.
MarkCZ

Mark,
Do you have an idea on your total arrow weight? Have you shot 300 spine shafts out of your bow before?

 

[Limcroma Safaris]

Hi chaps, I need to ask how to find the correct arrow for hunting game up to Oryx sized animals.
My bow is a 55 pound compound bow, my draw length is 29 inches. I have bought some Easton Gamegetter. XX75 with a 300 spine. However they are 32 inches in length. Are they too long?
thanks for any input as I am still learning.
MarkCZ

Hi Mark,

So, a spine chart recommendation is a general starting point.... If you are using Easton's spine chart for your reference it should get you close. The link that 375 Ruger Fan posted also contains a lot of useful information that will help you understand the importance of having the right spine... However, there are many factors besides spine that will influence the arrow's flight including total arrow weight, the percentage of weight forward distribution, and even the style of broadhead that you select...

Without getting too technical, you can shoot your bare arrow shaft including a field tip (at the same weight you intend to use for your broadhead) through paper from about 6-8 feet away. The tear pattern you see on the paper will show you the flight of your arrow shaft as it leaves the bow... You make your tuning adjustments based off of those tear patterns. The goal is to make fine adjustments until you are shooting bullet holes. Bullet holes means that you are shooting a near perfect arrow that is properly spined. An arrow that is not of the correct spine is often coming out of the bow on tilt or at yaw regardless of the rest adjustments.... This is often visualized by seeing the arrow "fish-tail" or "barrel roll" in flight. When your bow/arrow is out of tune, you loose valuable energy which can translate into poor accuracy and lack of penetration. However, shooting tight groups does not necessarily mean that your bow is tuned well. You can still shoot an arrow in the same place repeatedly even if it is way out of tune to the bow. Too many beginner bow hunters assume good groups are reflective of proper tune. You would be shocked to see how many "professional" bow hunters are shooting a bow that is out of tune. The slow-motion shots portrayed on these hunting shows often show an arrow flying nearly sideways before impacting the animal. They are likely loosing up to 50% of that arrow's momentum because of that poor tune....

Adjusting your arrow rest will correct arrow flight if you are at or near the proper spine. If your arrow is not of the correct spine, you will not be able to tune properly regardless of rest adjustments. You can shorten the arrow length to stiffen the spine, and you can also adjust the draw weight to catch up to the spine, but these are micro-adjustments. For major flight issues that you can visually see from the arrow flight, you will likely need to go up or down to the next spine classification.

For a beginner, it can seem a bit technical, but it's good to learn in case you are a thousand miles away from a bow shop and find your bow is out of tune... If possible, I would find a reputable bow shop with a qualified technician to help select your arrows and tune your arrows to the bow... Watch what he/she does, and ask them to explain what they are doing and why.... And, if all else fails, YouTube has a thousand videos on the subject. One of the better ones is linked below. Good luck and have fun with it...!

 

[BRICKBURN]

............. I have bought some Easton Gamegetter. XX75 with a 300 spine. ............

Any particular reason you grabbed this particular arrow?

 

[Ryan]

First, 3-4 inches over is a BAD idea. You want it around an inch past the arrow rest. I shoot 29" and my arrow rest is a QAD that mount on the rear of the riser and I shoot 29" arrows with the point in front of my rest at full draw about like the picture shows. I'm guessing you bought those uncut since that's about the maximum a 300 probably comes in. Cut them down to 29-30 depending on your arrow rest. Now, according to Easton's arrow selector chart https://www.dropbox.com/sh/j4cfwhnr...Selection_Chart0.pdf&subfolder_nav_tracking=1
300 spine is a bit over spined, but if you're increasing your weight up to 60 and/or using a 125 grain point it'll be perfect for that length.

This is just my opinion but I'm assuming you bought Gamegetter shafts because they were economical and available. Move up to carbon or carbon/aluminum (my preference are Easton FMJ) when you can. They are more expensive, but they last a lot longer. I recall bending a lot of Gamegetters when I was a kid.

 

[BRICKBURN]

........ I recall bending a lot of Gamegetters when I was a kid.

Almost every time out. That gets expensive pretty fast.

 

[Hunter101]

Check out Day 6. Making some tough arrows with great gpi

 

[Ryan]

Almost every time out. That gets expensive pretty fast.

The newer ones are actually XX75 alloy now, better than the old ones. But when I lived in Arizona growing up and college an aluminum arrow hitting dirt was bent.

 

[MarkCZ]

Any particular reason you grabbed this particular arrow?

I am pretty sure it was recommended.
Markcz

 

[MarkCZ]

Mark,
Do you have an idea on your total arrow weight? Have you shot 300 spine shafts out of your bow before?

no I don't know the total weight and I have not shoot these arrows before
Markcz

 

[206moose]

Hi chaps, I need to ask how to find the correct arrow for hunting game up to Oryx sized animals.
My bow is a 55 pound compound bow, my draw length is 29 inches. I have bought some Easton Gamegetter. XX75 with a 300 spine. However they are 32 inches in length. Are they too long?
thanks for any input as I am still learning.
MarkCZ

I would recommend a total arrow weight of 650 grains and at least 20% FOC. What bow are you shooting? I’ll run your setup through OT2 and give you a recommendation on the proper arrow to build.

 

[lpace]

First of all, running arrows longer than draw length is not a 'bad idea', just not typical. Second, bent aluminum arrows is certainly an issue - however, the more common issue with bending comes with thin shaft thickness. In the speed craze, before carbon arrows, aluminum arrows got thinner and thinner shafts (all the way down to '12'). Those thin walled arrows were much more prone to bending that the thicker arrows. I shoot aluminum arrows all the time and don't have issue with bent arrows with wall thickness of 16 or greater. Gamegetter 300's are 2317 arrows, which are great arrows.

To answer the question from @MarkCZ. No, 32 inches is not too long. There are a lot of variables involved in determining the correct dynamic spine of an arrow (bow, cam on the bow, draw length, brace height, fletching, point weight, arrow wrap or not), so determining which dynamic spine is correct requires more information than provided in the original post.

That being said, choosing a 'typical' bow (PSE Evolve 35) at 29" draw length and 55 lb draw weight, the 300 spine Gamegetters at 32" need a tip weight of 200 grains to get a good dynamic spine. That arrow would be about 700 grains with around 14% FOC. That is certainly an adequate arrow for gemsbok sized critters.