Neck Turning / Hornady Tool

PHOENIX PHIL

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Got an email from Brownell's today and they had this tool from Hornady on sale, so on impulse I bought it. Other neck turning tools didn't really look that great to me, but this one made sense to me.

From what I can gather one can choose how thick to make the necks. So the obvious question, just how thick do you who go through this step make them?

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/case-care/case-prep-tools/neck-turning-tool#!/
 

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Phil, how much thickness you shave all depends on the brass and how concentric it is. You'll need a micrometer to measure case thickness all the way around the neck (only need to do a few cases). After this is determined, then you'll want to turn down to the smallest thickness. Maybe go 0.0005 more than that to make sure you're covered on the batch you are prepping at the time.
 
Is this just entertainment for bored engineers?
 
I have found that for the majority of my reloads that I don't need to turn the necks down, even on cases that I make from other cases.

But on my target rifles it does make a difference buy you are only talking about 1/10's of a inch groups at 100 yards.
 
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Phil, how much thickness you shave all depends on the brass and how concentric it is. You'll need a micrometer to measure case thickness all the way around the neck (only need to do a few cases). After this is determined, then you'll want to turn down to the smallest thickness. Maybe go 0.0005 more than that to make sure you're covered on the batch you are prepping at the time.

That makes sense, thanks.
 
Is this just entertainment for bored engineers?

My garage has been anywhere from 100-130 degrees Fahrenheit for about 4 months now. I'm not sure when I last spent more than a minute in there. But there are signs of cooling in the morning, it's just a matter of a couple weeks before the weather turns nice. So a new toy was in order, and it was on sale.

But to answer your question more directly...........maybe
 
I have found that for the majority of my reloads that I don't need to turn the necks down, even on cases that I make from other cases.

But on my target rifles it does make a difference buy you are only talking about 1/10's of a inch groups at 100 yards.

I suffer occasionally from bouts of ballistic OCD. o_O:)
 
Have fun Phil
 
I have found that for the majority of my reloads that I don't need to turn the necks down, even on cases that I make from other cases.

But on my target rifles it does make a difference buy you are only talking about 1/10's of a inch groups at 100 yards.

I have never had a problem getting 1/2 Moa with unturned cases. If you do serious target rifle 1/10 is significant. Us hunters and tactical rifle slobs say an inch is minute of animal or the Running Russian
 
I have never had a problem getting 1/2 Moa with unturned cases. If you do serious target rifle 1/10 is significant. Us hunters and tactical rifle slobs say an inch is minute of animal or the Running Russian

My favorite North Fork bullets are sensitive to neck thickness. Proven it at the range, confirmed by the guys at NF. A flyer every one of four shots occurs. The flyer isn't terrible, just enough to spark as mentioned above a bout of ballistic OCD.
 
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My favorite North Fork bullets are sensitive to neck thickness. Proven it at the range, confirmed by the guys at NF. A flyer every one of four shots occurs. The flyer isn't terrible, just enough to spark as mentioned above a bout of ballistic OCD.

you must have confidence in your ammo
 
you must have confidence in your ammo

Between the experiences of others and my own to include myself, kids and wife in 7x57, .308W, .30-06, .300WM and .375H&H....high confidence in the North Forks.
 
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I have always felt there were really only two reasons to turn necks.

1) You have a tight throat and turned necks are needed in order to get loaded ammo to chamber, or

2) There is inconsistency in the thickness of the neck around its circumference.

For #1, you turn the necks enough to get reliable chambering.

For #2 you turn enough to remove the inconsistency.

Does anyone know of any other reason to turn necks?

Does anyone know why every time I tried to type necks in this post (except that one) I typed nexks? ;)
 
I have always felt there were really only two reasons to turn necks.

1) You have a tight throat and turned necks are needed in order to get loaded ammo to chamber, or

2) There is inconsistency in the thickness of the neck around its circumference.

For #1, you turn the necks enough to get reliable chambering.

For #2 you turn enough to remove the inconsistency.

Does anyone know of any other reason to turn necks?

Does anyone know why every time I tried to type necks in this post (except that one) I typed nexks? ;)


#1 isn't a problem in any of my rifles. Hope it never is any rifle.

#2 is precisely what is an issue with the NF bullets. They are usually 0.001" larger in diameter than other bullets of same caliber and I'm guessing this is what makes them susceptible to the inconsistent neck thickness. Better brass cured this to a degree that I'm happy to go hunting with them. But my inability to leave well enough alone and chase that last little bit of accuracy drove me to giving the neck turning a try.

Regarding your nexks problem, I haven't a clue. :)
 
Phil

Remind me again...how far out are these fliers?
 
#1 isn't a problem in any of my rifles. Hope it never is any rifle.

#1 is done on purpose by match types...they cut minimum neck dimensions on purpose so they have to turn the necks.
 
Phil

Remind me again...how far out are these fliers?

With better brass, the worst load is 1-1.25" groups. All my other loads will fit in a one square typically.

So why bother you may ask? The simple answer is because I suck at golf and just cuz.

With Remington brass I'd get 2-3 shots in a nice group but then a flyer 1.5-2" from the center of the others.
 
I'm asking so I have a data point when I start shoving those $2.30 bullets downrange!

Truthfully, I'll be shooting an un-scoped rifle that I am told (by the PH) will not be used at over 50 yards. So probably a very academic exercise here for me!

A 2" - 3" group off the sticks at 50 yards will be stellar. I suspect even my Hornady brass (that's for Charlie!) will do the trick. ;)

So the NF bullets run .001" over, eh?
 
I'm asking so I have a data point when I start shoving those $2.30 bullets downrange!

Truthfully, I'll be shooting an un-scoped rifle that I am told (by the PH) will not be used at over 50 yards. So probably a very academic exercise here for me!

A 2" - 3" group off the sticks at 50 yards will be stellar. I suspect even my Hornady brass (that's for Charlie!) will do the trick. ;)

So the NF bullets run .001" over, eh?

I will need to measure to be certain which will likely be tomorrow as I'm just home from work. Inside of 100 yards you should completely ignore this thread, you'll be just fine. Especially if you're talking a big bore. In my .375H&H I've not seen this issue.

So load 'em up and have at it. And just for the record, my problem with Hornady is limited to the DGX and DGS bullets. I used their brass awhile back when I had a .416 Rigby, it worked fine and would be happy to use it again. And this tool I've ordered is also a Hornady product.
 

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dogcat1 wrote on skydiver386's profile.
I would be interested in it if you pass. Please send me the info on the gun shop if you do not buy it. I have the needed ammo and brass.
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