Double field stripping

Heym 88

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I think I know the answer to this question, but I will ask anyway. If I drop my hammers on snap caps, then take forearm off and take barrels out, then take snap caps out of chambers, then reassemble the gun, it will be de-cocked and no pressure on ejectors correct? If I'm not mistaken, the hammers are supposed to be dropped before breaking the gun down right, as long as forearm comes off first?
 
I think I know the answer to this question, but I will ask anyway. If I drop my hammers on snap caps, then take forearm off and take barrels out, then take snap caps out of chambers, then reassemble the gun, it will be de-cocked and no pressure on ejectors correct? If I'm not mistaken, the hammers are supposed to be dropped before breaking the gun down right, as long as forearm comes off first?

Heym88,

As much as I love doubles, I am not sure of the answer.
However, the very first double shotgun I ever owned was a Stevens (Pre-Model 311 / perhaps made in the 1920s ?) and it had an issue similar to what you asked about.

When the internal hammers were forward (relaxed against the firing pins), the gun disassembled easy enough but the cocking tabs located at the lower front end of the receiver were so stubborn that, I could not re-attach the forearm.
I ended up paying a Gunsmith to re-assemble it.
Very embarrassing for a teenage boy who fancied himself a gun person.

Since then, I never take apart any internal hammer ("hammer-less") double of mine, rifle or shotgun, unless I make sure both sides are cocked, just in case any one of them might be built like that clunky old Stevens was.

Hopefully that adds to the confusion.

Regards,
Velo Dog.
 
I'm thinking if I dissasmble it cocked...then after putting it back together..I would still have to drop hammers on snap caps.
 
I'm thinking if I dissasmble it cocked...then after putting it back together..I would still have to drop hammers on snap caps.

Not sure if this helps but, I store all my "hammerless" doubles with lightly greased snap caps in them and the hammers down in the "fired position" to let the springs rest.
I know that leaves the ejector springs cocked but I do know any other way at the moment.
 
PS:
I know there is something from the old days (and still provided with best quality English guns today) called a "striker block".
It's often made of buffalo horn and used to press against the breech face of a double while it is in 3 pieces and then you dry fire the strikers against it to save breaking your firing pins.
Then the rifle or shotgun is ready for cleaning, light oil and storage.
Therefore, I will presume many doubles were designed for ease of re-assembly with the internal hammers (or "strikers" as the Brits call them) resting forward in the "fired position" / not cocked (unlike a certain clunky old Stevens shotgun I once owned).
Out.
 

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