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New bow hunter

This is a discussion on New bow hunter within the Bowhunting Africa forums, part of the HUNT AFRICA category; Hi guys, I am new to the bow hunting environment but love it so far. I have the Bowtech Assassin. ...

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    Pardus is offline New Member
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    Default New bow hunter

    Hi guys,
    I am new to the bow hunting environment but love it so far.
    I have the Bowtech Assassin.
    I want to find out what broadheads is good quality and kill the animal in the least amount of time?
    My field points are 100gr and want the broadheads to be 100 aswell.
    Any guidance will be helpfull.

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    Norwegianwoods's Avatar
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    Hi and welcome
    I highly recommend you to use either Slick Trick Standards or Slick Trick Magnums.

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    Pardus is offline New Member
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    Ok I heard that G5 also good broadheads are?

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    Hunted Africa...are there other continents to hunt?

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    All good suggestions. I still love the muzzy three blade head. Sharp, fly well out of my bow, and leave a nice blood trail.
    Tom

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    You will get as many opinions as there are BH's on the market, which are many. I personally shoot Smoke Ramcats in the 100 grain and I am going to try 2 new heads this year, the Quad Exodus in the non barbed version and a broadhead called the Gravedigger. The Gravedigger is a hybrid with a COC 1" main blade with 2 1 3/4" curved mechanical blades, sort of the best of both worlds. This head is 420 stainless steel blades with 7075 aluminum ferrule. A total of 4 1/4" of cutting surface. Some may say the 1" main blade cut is not large enough, but there are a ton of heads that only have 1 1/8" including the Slick Tricks.

    As far as the Ramcats, the 2 heads I mentioned above are going to have an uphill climb to get me to switch from the Ramcats. they worked well for me on 5 plains game in Africa in 2010, several feral hogs and deer in TX and a huge 6x7 345" bull elk in CO last Sept. I got full pass thrus on the bell elk at 38 and 44 yards. The second shot was not needed, but since he stopped, I figured I may as well put another in him. He only went 50 yards and collapsed.

    Find a BH that is of good quality, sharp and flies well out of your set up. Almost any head you choose will work if the shot is in the right place. There is not a head on the market that will make up for a bad shot unless it is a huge cutting mechanical and you get lucky and barely cut a major vein, artery or organ.
    HCA Speed Pro, 70#'s @ 29", 560 grain Gold Tip XT Hunters tipped w/100 grain Smoke Ramcat.

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    Default best broadhead

    Slick tricks, and Muzzys are both excellent tried and true choices. MX-3's are my personal choice.

    Anything but mechanicals! Don't do it! My favorite quote I have seen from another bowhunter is

    " Rage, it's like throwing an axe halfway through an animal..." Sadly, couldn't be more true.....

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    My son Dakota has taken 32 species, including 4 of the big five with Magnus buzzcuts. Been amazed by the performance. He has a few pictures in the gallery.

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    I have had great luck with Steelforce broadheads on many animals from Coyote to Moose. They are easy to tune, penetrate and hold together well.
    The journey is the reward.

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    Thanx for all the info guys will do some shopping and get a nice set of BH's!!!

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    Welcome to the bowhunting addiction. There really are not any bad broadheads, just lots of opinions. To better chose a head you need to take some factors into account. What kind of game are you going to be pursuing? What is your setups kinetic energy? For example on thin skinned game like Mule Deer, White Tail, Pronghorn, Black Bear, exc. I like to use Rage broadheads, but for thick skinned game I go to a Magnus buzz cut two blade. Part of the fun for me is the planing and calculation, I like to try new gear. Have fun with the research and remember in the end its all about shot placement.

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    Kal has the right formula there: heavier/2 blade/cut on impact heads penatrate better than lighter/muti bladed/feild pointed/expandable/overly wide broadheads. Simple math the bigger the hole or duller the blade (entire blade from the tip onward) the more energy it will take to make it. There is a place for the qualities found in groub "b" but you should consider the reduced penatration as well as any benefits they may contribute.
    The journey is the reward.

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    First, welcome to the forum, second, I have tried a few ( I personally ) like the Rage and Rocket sidewinders. I have had great success with both yet others have not. I have also tried the G5's I love the cut on contact aspect of the G5's, but, I like The Rage just a little more, so that's what I use. Good luck in your search.
    "That which does not kill us makes us stronger" Friedrich Nietzsche // That which does not kill me, better run like hell" Scott Smith

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    Kal, Thank you for the advise, my biggest game at this point in time will be kudu and smaller. So then the Rage will be a better option by the sound of things?

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    First of all. What is your DW and DL?
    I would not risk to use Rage on a Kudu.
    I think Rage is totally fine for something like Blesbuck, Impala and smaller, but for something like a Kudu and bigger I would clearly use a fixed broad head.

    If you want much cutting surface, I would recommend you to use GrizzTrick 2. It has a total cutting surface of 2 1/2" compared with a Rage that has 2".
    The GrizzTrick 2 is all made of strong high quality steel and is a fixed broad head. The Rage has a aluminum ferrule and is a mechanical.

    The Rage will not be so much affected in windy conditions as the GrizzTrick 2 and the Rage might be easier to get to have the same POI as your field points.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Norwegianwoods View Post
    First of all. What is your DW and DL?
    I would not risk to use Rage on a Kudu.
    I think Rage is totally fine for something like Blesbuck, Impala and smaller, but for something like a Kudu and bigger I would clearly use a fixed broad head.

    If you want much cutting surface, I would recommend you to use GrizzTrick 2. It has a total cutting surface of 2 1/2" compared with a Rage that has 2".
    The GrizzTrick 2 is all made of strong high quality steel and is a fixed broad head. The Rage has a aluminum ferrule and is a mechanical.

    The Rage will not be so much affected in windy conditions as the GrizzTrick 2 and the Rage might be easier to get to have the same POI as your field points.
    Guess I have to re-think my ink. I agree with Norwegianwoods here. If you are shooting over 65#'s DW, then the Rage should be fine, if not a cut on contact would be better. I have no experience with the Grizz, but, I do with the G5 and I love the concept. I would also agree with woods that if you are going to hunt Kudu or bigger, then choose a fixed blade. I "personally" would take a gun, but, that's me.
    "That which does not kill us makes us stronger" Friedrich Nietzsche // That which does not kill me, better run like hell" Scott Smith

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    Woods, I personally tend to agree with you on the Rage, but you are looking at the cutting width of the Rage at 2" and not the cutting surface. The blades on the Rage are swept back just like any other head and give more cutting surface that the 2" cutting width. If you want to compare apples to apples, a Slick Trick has a 1 1/8" cutting diameter and the Rage has a 2" cutting diameter. If I had a Rage on hand I could tell you what the cutting surface is as opposed to the Slick Trick. Not bashing, just correcting. I have used both very successfully in RSA also but I prefer a fixed head.
    HCA Speed Pro, 70#'s @ 29", 560 grain Gold Tip XT Hunters tipped w/100 grain Smoke Ramcat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mudslinger View Post
    Woods, I personally tend to agree with you on the Rage, but you are looking at the cutting width of the Rage at 2" and not the cutting surface. The blades on the Rage are swept back just like any other head and give more cutting surface that the 2" cutting width. If you want to compare apples to apples, a Slick Trick has a 1 1/8" cutting diameter and the Rage has a 2" cutting diameter. If I had a Rage on hand I could tell you what the cutting surface is as opposed to the Slick Trick. Not bashing, just correcting. I have used both very successfully in RSA also but I prefer a fixed head.
    I would personally never use any head with more than 1-1 1/4" width for larger game simply because of the decreased penetration associated. 300# amimals and under sure but not for Kudu.
    The journey is the reward.

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    The use of a particular style of broadhead, COC, fixed or mechanical should be determined on the animal you are going to hunt and the KE, momentum and arrow weight you are planning on shooting. I have shot one Kudu, 54 1/2" and got a complete pass thru with a Rage 2 blade, but I was also shooting 70#'s with a 29" draw and a 560 grain arrow, plenty for that animal. I personally am not a big backer of mechanicals, but I have shot quiet a few animals with mechanicals over the years. My choice is a fixed blade and if and when I get to hunt maybe dangerous game, it will be with a heavier arrow and a COC single bevel head. Kudu are big animals, but not a tremendously heavy boned nor thick skinned animal. The biggest thing to choosing a BH is to choose one that shoots well from your set up, make sure it is sharp and put it in the right spot and it will not matter what head it is, but still match your equipment and BH of choice to your animal and specs of what you are shooting.
    HCA Speed Pro, 70#'s @ 29", 560 grain Gold Tip XT Hunters tipped w/100 grain Smoke Ramcat.

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    Lots of good advice from all these experienced bowhunters. Here is my take. I prefer a cut on contact broad-head due to the increased penetration. Not every shot hits tissue only, sometimes you hit bone. Penetration efficiency is lost if the head is not cutting on impact. You can't kill em unless you reach the vitals. The broad-head need to be perspicaciously sharp. One can assume a head is sharp from the factory, but reality is that many are far from keen. Take the time to learn how to sharpen your heads until they scare you. Lastly, study shot placement, for without proper shot placement, it dosn't matter what broad-head you are shooting. You can't kill em unless you place that sharp broad-head into the vitals.
    When I am not hunting, I am thinking about hunting....I think I'll go hunting.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
    Lots of good advice from all these experienced bowhunters. Here is my take. I prefer a cut on contact broad-head due to the increased penetration. Not every shot hits tissue only, sometimes you hit bone. Penetration efficiency is lost if the head is not cutting on impact. You can't kill em unless you reach the vitals. The broad-head need to be perspicaciously sharp. One can assume a head is sharp from the factory, but reality is that many are far from keen. Take the time to learn how to sharpen your heads until they scare you. Lastly, study shot placement, for without proper shot placement, it dosn't matter what broad-head you are shooting. You can't kill em unless you place that sharp broad-head into the vitals.
    Thank you Stretch,
    That is very true on the shot placement. A am studying the placement for a while now. Luckily a few of my friends also do bowhunting so will learn from them aswell.

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