Help me pick a blank for a M98 375 HH!

Just got some pictures of available blanks for a new custom rifle build - a mauser 375 H&H- which blanks do you find the most promising?

blank 208



blank 207


blank 215


blank 218


blank 219

208 then 219

Spike, I knew I could count on you to make a worthwhile contribution. Inclined to agree.
207 has the correct flow but is just too boring...

Edging towards 208

208 then 219, +1

i think when finished and all polished up 208 will look best then 219. i didnt like the others too much. i think 208 especially will have that beautiful deep feel to it. beauty is of course in the eye of the beholder, but if it was me it would be 208.

Job done then, 208 it is! Cant wait...

Originally Posted by username

Job done then, 208 it is! Cant wait...

good choice i think. dont forget to keep us posted as it takes shape.

Will keep you updated! Should be done in time for this falls hunt, believe it or not

Should I be worried that the 208 blank is not structurally strong enough to accomodate a 375 H&H system though?

I guess a few of the other blanks have a more "pronounced" flow on the grip section..

You should not have any problems with this blank.

Originally Posted by username

Should I be worried that the 208 blank is not structurally strong enough to accomodate a 375 H&H system though?

I guess a few of the other blanks have a more "pronounced" flow on the grip section..

Ok, great. I cant really see any flow, just (granted, lovely) pattern.
Is it of great importance to have a visible grain flow through the grip neck?
Wouldnt want it to break in to in the middle of an old dagga boy charge..

The grip area is the area that you would like to have the straights grain in your stock.

The blank you have picked gives your stock-maker the flexibility to position the wood for best layout.

How thin you make the neck area will have a great deal to do with wood fatigue.

Originally Posted by username

Ok, great. I cant really see any flow, just (granted, lovely) pattern.
Is it of great importance to have a visible grain flow through the grip neck?
Wouldnt want it to break in to in the middle of an old dagga boy charge..

may i ask who you are having make your stock. There are many good ones out there however some rise to the top of the field.

just curious.

Originally Posted by James.Grage

may i ask who you are having make your stock. There are many good ones out there however some rise to the top of the field.

just curious.

Well I ordered my rifle at AHR ( hunting-rifles.com)

I dont know if Wayne Jacobson is the actual stockmaker but I suspect he is

Were you fitted and did he build you a test stock? then you usually go shoot the rifle and see if you are hitting what you are looking at. bring up the gun and fire to check alignment...

The one i have been to do that then build off your wood...

they way you get length of stock and proper comb, then you pick out your checkering pattern and recoil pad.

Originally Posted by username

Well I ordered my rifle at AHR ( hunting-rifles.com)

I dont know if Wayne Jacobson is the actual stockmaker but I suspect he is

Im in norway and he is in montana, so alas that would prove difficult. Its measured to my specifications though.

That is not the same as being fitted and custom made to you..

buy the way there are 3 very good rifle stock maker in Montana...top of the line...

Originally Posted by username

Im in norway and he is in montana, so alas that would prove difficult. Its measured to my specifications though.

I would like to see the end result when it is finished. Very nice. Don't forget Cross Bolts & Recoil lug on the barrel. Not worth the risk of splitting a nice piece of Walnut..

Originally Posted by James.Grage

That is not the same as being fitted and custom made to you..

buy the way there are 3 very good rifle stock maker in Montana...top of the line...

I know James - but I wanted a rifle from this maker so thats that I guess